A warm (high) bed is very convenient and practical. On such beds, bountiful and early harvests are harvested, and it is much easier to care for them than for an ordinary vegetable garden.
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It is best to start arranging such beds in the fall. But if you didn't have time, you can do it in the spring, only when the ground has already warmed up and does not stick to the shovel (about mid-April).
Varieties and advantages of warm beds
Warm beds are:
- bulk (bed-hills);
- buried (flush with the ground);
- boxes (towering above the ground). This is the most common type of tall beds.
- early and bountiful harvest;
- can be grown in poor soil (the soil inside the garden is saturated with nutrients);
- spring frosts do not cause significant damage (internal natural heating of the soil is triggered);
- environmental friendliness (disposal of accumulated plant waste).
The principle of operation of high (warm) beds
The basic principle of operation of such beds is the decomposition of plant residues, after which heat is generated due to a chemical reaction.
A warm bed is made of several layers, plant residues are placed under the soil - the heat they release during decomposition warms the soil, and there is no need for heating.
The service life of such a bed is approximately 4 years. At its end, the used soil is removed from the trench, new plant waste and new soil are applied to the bottom. Old soil can be used to mulch a new bed.
The length of the warm bed is chosen at will, the width should be made at least 100 cm (for the convenience of caring for the plants). Be sure to leave such a distance between the trenches that will not obstruct access to each of the beds from all sides (approximately 50 cm).
Step-by-step instructions (how to make a warm bed yourself)
- Remove the top layer of soil (it will be needed in the future).
- Dig a rectangular hole (80-90 cm wide, 40 cm deep).
- Reinforce the sides with a rigid base.
- We lay out the layers in stages:
- drainage (dry branches, stems, roots);
- organic waste. These can be any organic residues that quickly decompose (rotten vegetables, clean paper, any leaves, etc.). This layer must be tamped, it must settle;
- compost or manure;
- the top layer of soil, which was removed at the beginning of the preparation of the beds. It must be at least 10 cm thick;
- abundant watering.
A fine-mesh net, laid on the bottom of the bed, protects the soil and crops from rodent pests (moles, mole rats, etc.). Rodents spoil the growing crop and contribute to soil subsidence.
If the bed was made in the fall - it is ready for planting plants, you do not need to dig it up.
If the garden bed was made in the spring, plant the plants about 1.5 months after it was made.
Warm beds justify their laborious creation with a good harvest. Early ripening, excellent plant growth - these are far from all the advantages of this method of growing crops!
Do you make warm beds?
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