Summer cuttings of roses: step by step instructions

July is considered the best time for cutting roses. Bush flowers, leaving few people indifferent, give a lot of growth, allowing you to preserve varietal characteristics. To propagate roses, you need to know some of the nuances of cuttings and rooting.

Roses. Illustration for this article is used under a standard license © ofazende.com

Pros and cons of summer cuttings

Summer is the most suitable time for cutting roses. During this period, you can create young bushes while maintaining varietal qualities. For this you need to use green cuttings. In summer, they take root very quickly and manage to accumulate strength before the arrival of cold weather. Cuttings survive the winter without any problems.

Pros of cuttings in the summer:

1. Young bushes do not form root shoots.
2. You can multiply any variety you like, even roses from a donated bouquet.
3. The resulting new bushes live long.
4. Procurement of planting material is not difficult.

The disadvantage of this propagation method is that young plants need to be well covered in winter..

Procurement of planting material

Climbing roses, hybrid tea, miniature, ground cover, floribunda, etc. can be propagated at this time. Cuttings are harvested in two ways.

From underdeveloped shoots

Each plant has underdeveloped shoots, that is, lateral short branches that do not bloom. Some growers cut them so that the rose does not waste nutrients. But such shoots can be used as planting material.

You need to carefully examine the bush. Usually underdeveloped shoots are in the lower part. They need to be carefully cut or broken off near the trunk.

After that, the planting material is inspected for defects and washed under water to prevent the entry of pests. The bottom sheet is removed, and the top ones are shortened by a third. Under the lower bud it is necessary to make an incision in the bark so as not to damage the wood. Roots will form at this point.

From green or faded shoots

Most often, cuttings are harvested from green or semi-lignified branches. Greens take root easier. For their preparation, they take a shoot with a developed bud, which has just begun to stain.

To harvest semi-lignified shoots, choose a rose that has recently faded.

Harvesting is the same for green and lignified shoots. The upper part with a bud and three leaves is cut off. The rest is cut into cuttings.

Rooting in the open field

A temporary bed is made for rooting. For this, it is desirable to choose a place that is located in partial shade. Rose bushes grow well in fertile soil, so a mixture of turf and humus will be most suitable. The thickness of the fertile layer should be about 10 cm. A layer of peat and sand 4 cm thick is laid on it.

Manure or compost should not be used instead of humus. This can provoke rotting of the planting material.

Cuttings must be buried to a depth of no more than 2 cm. If planted deeper, the rooting process will take much longer.

Then a glass jar or cut bottle is put on each stalk. This is necessary to maintain high humidity in a kind of greenhouse.

The soil around the cutting should also be constantly moist, but when it is moistened, the jars should not be lifted. Water only the spaces between the plants. The seedlings are transferred to a permanent place in the spring.

Other rooting options

Not all gardeners manage to root cuttings in a street garden. But there are alternative ways. With their help, you can easily propagate a rose.

In water

This rooting option allows you to observe root formation and be sure that everything is going as it should. But experts are rather skeptical about this method. The percentage of rooting in this case is lower than when planting cuttings in the ground. Rooting in water is more suitable for ground cover and miniature varieties.

Rooting process:

1. Chopped cuttings are not soaked in rooting stimulants. These funds must be added directly to the water in which the planting material will take root.
2. The water level in a jar or other transparent container should not exceed 2.5 cm.
3. Next, a cap made of transparent plastic or polyethylene is erected over the handle.
4. The container is placed in a well-lit place, but without direct sunlight.
5. The water in the container is not changed. It is gradually poured to the required level. Callus will appear in about two to three weeks.

In potatoes

This method is suitable for the most inexperienced florists:

1. If the potatoes have eyes, they are cut out to prevent sprouting. The cuttings should be thrust into the tubers.
2. Then the potatoes are buried in the street garden to a depth of 5 cm.
3. In this case, the cuttings are not covered, since the potatoes will feed the cuttings with useful components and moisture.

By the end of August, the potatoes will rot, giving the rose additional nutrition. By this time, the stalk will already form full-fledged roots. Young plants are left for the winter. If necessary, a transplant can be carried out next year.

In the package

For the procedure, you will need sphagnum moss, aloe juice, sterile soil and a plastic bag. Rooting process:

1. First, soak the moss in a solution of aloe juice. For this, 1 tsp. l. the juice is diluted in a glass of water.
2. The soil, moss and cuttings are put in a bag, it is tightly tied. After that, the bag is hung on the street in a shaded place.
3. After about a month, small roots form on the cuttings. They are planted in a pot or directly on the garden bed.

Propagation of roses by cuttings in the summer allows you to preserve the varietal qualities of plants and guarantees good survival of the planting material. After transplanting to a permanent place, the plants require regular moderate watering, loosening and fertilizing the soil.

Read also: Marigolds: features and benefits of flowers

Friends, do not forget to subscribe to the channel and LIKE if the article is useful!