One of the most important measures for preparing roses for winter is treating plants from pathogenic bacteria and insect pests. I take this procedure with full responsibility and want to share my experience.
Main events held in the fall
I cover most varieties of roses before the onset of frost. But first, I do a number of preparatory work.
Top dressing
In mid-August, I completely stop applying nitrogen-containing fertilizers. These compositions are aimed at the active growth of the bush and the formation of new shoots, which will lead to a strong weakening of the rose before the onset of frost. Preparations containing this element are best used in the spring.
Until the end of September, I bring in the necessary potassium and phosphorus, which make it possible to strengthen the root system of the plant and increase its resistance to:
- low temperatures;
- weather fluctuations;
- diseases;
- pests.
During this period, I use double superphosphate in granules and potassium magnesium. I sprinkle the preparations around the perimeter of the root circle and spill it abundantly with soft, settled water. In liquid form, fertilizers are easier and faster absorbed by the root system and spread through the tissues of the plant.
Tillage
I pay special attention to the root circle. I carefully weed all the weeds, since the larvae of insect pests can hibernate on them, they can become a source of fungal diseases.
Next, I remove all the fallen leaves and burn it.
I remove all plant residues. If this is not possible, I use destructive drugs that are available in specialized stores. Such solutions, diluted according to the instructions, promote the decomposition of plant residues and disinfect the soil.
Then I thoroughly loosen the soil, enriching the root system with a sufficient amount of oxygen.
Bushes processing
In the period from mid-October to mid-November, I start pruning rose bushes. I start the procedure when the night temperature does not rise above -5 ° C. At this point, the shoots are still quite flexible, and the plant tolerates pruning well.
With a sharp, well-disinfected instrument in a solution of potassium permanganate, I remove:
- weak shoots;
- thin;
- dry;
- broken;
- with signs of infestation by pests or disease.
I always tear off all the remaining leaves and buds from the bush, since during the thaw they can rot in the shelter.
I cut off the lower leaves at the beginning of autumn to a height of up to 30 cm. I process the sections with a special solution, which includes wax compounds.
Disinfection of plants
After pruning, I proceed to disinfect the bushes. The procedure is a good prevention against the appearance of fungal, infectious and viral diseases, the appearance of insect pests in the spring. I thoroughly spray not only the bushes, but also the ground under the rose.
For the procedure I use Bordeaux liquid 3%, copper sulfate. Another remedy that contains copper is also suitable.
Mulching
Before the very shelter, I recommend digging up the ground on the bayonet of a shovel and making hilling to a height of 30 cm.
I bend the standard and climbing ones to the ground, fix the shoots with wire, and cover the root with 50 cm of soil.
For other varieties, I mulch the root circle using one of the materials:
- peat;
- straw;
- sawdust.
Shelter roses for the winter
At the end of all the activities, I start to cover the bushes. The best material is spruce branches. It has the following advantages:
- well ventilated;
- keeps warm;
- acidifies the soil;
- is a natural antiseptic.
In a snowy winter, it is the best way to hide roses.
Since roses are quite capricious plants, I take their preparation for the winter period and shelter with full responsibility. I adhere to all the recommendations of experienced gardeners. This is not the first year that I have been doing this, and in the spring the bushes quickly come to their senses, delight with bright long flowering.
Read also: How to properly prune strawberries after harvest
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