How I Grow the F1 Cornabel Hybrid Tomato

  • Nov 22, 2021

Today I want to introduce you to the amazing hybrid tomato variety Cornabel F1. I have been successfully growing it for a long time on my site. Tomato can be loved for its attractive and unusual fruit shape and amazing taste.

Hybrid tomato cultivar Cornabel F1. Illustration for the article is used from the site vosadu-li-vogorode.ru
Hybrid tomato cultivar Cornabel F1. Illustration for the article is used from the site vosadu-li-vogorode.ru
Hybrid tomato cultivar Cornabel F1. Illustration for the article is used from the site vosadu-li-vogorode.ru

Below I will tell you what a hybrid is and how to care for it.

General description of Cornabel F1

The hybrid tomato variety is of interest for its fruit shape, which can be confused with bell peppers. One of the main advantages of the variety, I consider its belonging to the indeterminate. Tomato bushes are quite tall, so they need compulsory formation and support.

Cornabel F1 is a high-yielding variety. With proper agricultural technology, you can collect up to five kilograms of juicy fruits from one bush. The fruits themselves are also quite large, ripen on the clusters. The weight of one tomato can reach half a kilogram. The firm flesh is sweetish and very juicy.

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How to grow a variety from seedlings

The beauty of the variety is that it can be successfully grown both in the greenhouse and in the open field. The technology for growing seedlings is no different from standard varieties.

Seedlings of tomatoes. Illustration for this article is used under a standard license © ofazende.com
Seedlings of tomatoes. Illustration for this article is used under a standard license © ofazende.com

To grow seedlings, you need to adhere to the following rules:

  • Preparation of planting material. Considering that the variety Cornabel F1 belongs to the first generation hybrids, the seeds must be purchased from specialized proven garden centers. In addition, they must be properly prepared before planting. To do this, it is enough to soak them in water and stand for about 20 minutes. Good heavy seeds will sink to the bottom, and bad ones will float to the surface. Of course, we need the ones at the bottom. Further, for additional disinfection, I keep the seeds in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
  • Germination of seeds. You can do this with damp cotton wool spread out on a saucer. Spread the seeds on cotton wool with a thin layer, and cover with a damp gauze cloth on top. Once the seeds begin to hatch, they are ready to plant.
  • Selection of containers and soil. Prepared seeds can be planted in special containers or directly into the ground. As containers, I prefer to use small wooden boxes - this is very convenient. In the soil prepared for planting, you can additionally introduce nitrate and a small amount of superphosphate.
  • Correct timing. Seeds are best sown in late winter or early March. It should be about two months before planting in open ground. Sprouted seeds need to be buried two centimeters and covered with a small layer of wet soil. Cover the boxes with seeds with foil and send them to a warm, well-lit place. As soon as the seedlings appear above the soil surface, the film can be removed.
  • As soon as a full pair of leaves appears on the seedlings, it's time to start picking into more spacious containers, in which the seedlings should remain until flowering.
  • So that the plants that find themselves in the open gunt do not experience stress, they must be prepared in advance. This happens by gradually hardening the sprouts. This can be done on a balcony or loggia, taking out seedlings for a short while at night. It is safe to plant seedlings in open ground when the soil warms up to fifteen degrees at a depth of ten centimeters. Depending on the climatic characteristics of the region, these periods may differ significantly.

Landing in open ground

For planting, you need to organize holes up to 15 centimeters deep and shed them well with water. Since the variety is indeterminate, do not forget about the required interval between plantings, which should be at least half a meter. There should be at least a meter of space between the rows of tomato bushes.

Planting tomatoes. Illustration for this article is used under a standard license © ofazende.com
Planting tomatoes. Illustration for this article is used under a standard license © ofazende.com

After moving the seedlings into the holes, the soil should be carefully compacted and re-watered with warm water.

Necessary care measures

For tomatoes to grow healthy and beautiful, they need to provide the following conditions:

  • Timely watering. At the stage of not yet matured seedlings, half a liter of water per plant is enough for bushes. In the future, the amount of water should be systematically increased. Personally, I only use warm, previously settled water for irrigation. It is better to water in the morning or evening hours so that the plants do not get burned by aggressive sunlight. The soil under the tomatoes should not be dry, however, over-watering can provoke fungal diseases.
  • Plants need systematic weeding. This action will help ensure the necessary air exchange.
  • As I said earlier, the hybrid must be formed. In order for the side shoots to develop freely, the tops of the bushes should be pinched. It is important to control the growth of the stepchildren, because they significantly weaken the mother bush. It is best to form the variety in a two-stem system.
  • Due to the impressive height of the bush, he needs support so that the bush does not simply break under the weight of the fruit.
  • Competent feeding. The first one can be carried out already a week after planting the seedlings. I use a weak solution of poultry manure as a top dressing. In the future, it is worth focusing on mineral compositions.

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