Not so long ago, I planted blueberries on the site. I saw that it has taken root with the neighbors and is bearing fruit, and decided to try it too. I have a modest plot of blueberries, so the harvest is small.
In natural conditions, blueberries grow in wetlands. But our scientists-breeders have developed new varieties specially for summer residents that take root well in vegetable gardens.
How to care for blueberries
It is enough to follow a few simple rules:
- Blueberries planted in the wrong soil will not grow. She needs an acidic and at the same time loose soil, fortunately, that my site basically consists of this. And if the soil is heavy, I add peat to it.
- I planted the blueberries in a well-lit area away from tall trees. In the absence of the sun, the taste of the berry deteriorates.
- I make sure that she has plenty of water. Pouring, of course, is not necessary, but the soil should be constantly moist, especially during the fruiting period. In hot weather, I additionally spray the plantings with water.
- To make the evaporation less intense, I mulched the bushes with last year's sawdust.
Planting blueberries is not enough. If you think that on this you can forget about it until the first berries, you are mistaken. Without dressing, few fruits will grow, and they will be small and too sour. Don't think that she needs unlimited fertilizers. She is an unpretentious berry. Give her a minimum of attention, and the result will delight you.
What dressing to use for blueberries
In the first year of planting, I do not feed blueberries. I start with the second. In the spring, when the buds swell, blueberries need nitrogen. I can easily determine the lack of nitrogen by the appearance of the plant. If this element is present in the required amount, the leaves of the shrub are large, shiny, dark green in color. The plant develops and grows rapidly.
Lack of nitrogen affects in such a way that the growth of shoots is inhibited, the color of the leaves changes to yellow-green and gradually turns into red.
Excess nitrogen negatively affects the plant. It "fattens", actively increasing the green mass, and does not have time to lignify by the fall. As a result, it freezes out for the most part in winter.
When there is not enough phosphorus, blueberry leaves change color from green to purple and press against the stem.
Potassium deficiency leads to the appearance of necrotic spots. The tops of the shoots turn black and die off.
I can see the lack of magnesium in the bright red edges of the leaves.
The blueness of the leaves at the top of the bush indicates a lack of boron. Shoots do not grow and dry.
Iron is essential for growth and good fruiting.
If the leaves are curled up in a boat, this is a sign of copper deficiency.
How to determine what fertilizers are needed and how to apply them
By external signs, I determine which micro and macro elements are required for my plantings. The amount of fertilization directly depends on the age of the bush. If one tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer is enough for a two-year-old bush, then a six-year-old is already sixteen.
I mainly use specially formulated mineral fertilizers for feeding blueberries. The package describes the feeding scheme and their quantity.
In addition to complex fertilizers, I apply top dressing in accordance with the lack of certain types of elements.
The first time blueberries receive nutrition in early spring, before the buds swell. The second time I apply fertilizer at the beginning of May.
With a little effort, you can get a good harvest of a wonderful berry that makes my table more varied. That being said, I always remember that excess nutrition for blueberries is just as dangerous as lack.
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