They say about hydrangeas: planted a bush - got a flower bed. It grows unusually; once it was taken to Europe specifically to decorate the gardens of the nobility. We are not aristocrats, but this beauty has mastered perfectly in our gardens. And not only in the middle lane: frost-resistant varieties have taken root in the Urals and Siberia.
Cold-resistant varieties
They are called briefly and beautifully: hydrangia.
Panicled hydrangia is the most winter-hardy. She is not afraid of 40-degree frosts. It blooms profusely from mid-June to October and pleases with a variety of shades.
Her relatives also settled in the middle regions. Known species: Grandiflora, Phantom, Vanilla Fraze, Anabel. They bloom early, in a short summer you have time to stop looking at them. Some have a permanent color, in others the inflorescences change color.
Which variety to choose
For those unfamiliar with hydrangeas, I would advise you to plant several varieties and test how well they do in your area. Start with a panicled look. Even young stems of hydrangia are covered with bark by autumn, protecting them from the cold.
The most popular winter-hardy:
- Bobo. A low shrub that, when blooming, turns into a lush white-pink tussock.
- Polar bear. Even in harsh climates, it flaunts huge white pyramidal caps of inflorescences.
- Miranda, Cordifolia, Petiolaris are hydrangea-lianas that need support. For the winter they are removed and covered.
Growing conditions
- Landing place. You don't need a lot of sun! A semi-shaded area on the east side of the garden is best. And wind protection.
- The soil is fertile, enriched with humus, turf, clayey. Acidified environment, 5-6 pH, it is she who provides the brightness of the inflorescences. Land from pine and spruce plantations is well suited.
Terms and landing technology
In the southern regions, hydrangea can be planted in the fall. In the north - in the spring, so that the bushes get stronger by winter.
Wells are prepared a month before planting. The distance is maintained up to 2.5 m. The pits are filled with a mixture of peat, humus and sand and allowed to settle.
A month later, bushes are planted. Straighten the roots, sprinkle the soil and compact. A bucket of settled water is poured under each bush, after which mulch is introduced from pine needles, bark or peat.
Care
The specificity of the first and second years is the strengthening of the root and stems. Hydrangeas are not allowed to bloom by cutting off the buds.
Good watering and top dressing prepare the plant for the first wintering. In the heat, at least 2 buckets of water per week are poured onto the bush. She needs good watering even in autumn: this will increase frost resistance. Sometimes 2-3 g of potassium permanganate is added to the water.
Root mulching is done in spring.
In the third year of growth, fertilizers are applied:
- in May - 30 g of a complex mineral mixture per bucket of water;
- after 2 weeks - infusion of mullein or chicken manure (1:10);
- before flowering and during - liquid potassium-phosphorus top dressing. 70 g of potassium sulfate and 70 g of superphosphate are taken per bucket of water.
In winter, paniculate and tree-like hydrangeas are spudded, mulched and covered with snow. In the northern regions, shrubs are wrapped with agrofibre.
Disease prevention
- If yellow spots appear on the hydrangia, the beginning chlorosis is expelled by watering with potassium nitrate: 4 g per liter of water. Three days later, watering is repeated with ferrous sulfate in the same proportion.
- From dark oily spots of mealy bark, a copper-soap solution helps: 150 g of soap from pests and 15 g of copper sulfate.
- Fungicides "Topaz", "Fitosporin" will get rid of gray rot.
- Attack in the form of aphids and spider mites lends itself to soapy water.
With the right care, hardy hydrangeas will reward you with long, lush blooms every summer.
Do you have any favorite varieties?
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