The first top dressing is applied directly when the bush is planted in the dug hole. As a rule, an organic agent is added, which is more than enough as the main food for several years until the first full fruiting (on average, after 4 years). Additional portions of fertilizer are applied every quarter, starting in April:
- in spring, 20 g of urea or 30 g of ammonium nitrate (ammonia) are added to the dug up soil to a depth of 30 cm;
- in July, diluted manure (10 l) or a solution of nitrophoska (20 g per 10 l) is added to irrigation;
- in October, 15 g of potassium salt or superphosphate is poured under each bush.
This scheme is quite approximate in terms of timing, since the local climate can make certain shifts in one direction or another.
Applied means
When feeding honeysuckle, I usually do not limit myself to one preparation: mineral supplements, organic remedies, and folk recipes are used. I note that with strict observance of the proportions and general rules of compatibility, you can use different top dressings both independently and in combination.
Mineral preparations are characterized by a high content of a certain element. An important feature of such dressings is that the desired mineral is very quickly absorbed by the plant, but it is not able to remain in the soil layer for a long time.
At the first stage, I use nitrogen-containing additives, since it is the presence of nitrogen during this period that is important for the plant:
- the mineral prevents branches from bending;
- promotes the growth of deciduous crown;
- stimulates the formation of fertile ovaries.
From fertilizers I will highlight the most effective:
- Saltpeter. It crumbles into the root circle (20 g per bush) directly on the soil surface or dissolves in irrigation water (5 g per 10 l).
- Urea. It is mixed with soil when digging (20 g per 1 sq.m.) or used for irrigation (30 g per 10 l). Incompatible with lime, superphosphate and chalk.
- Ammonium chloride. Be sure to mix with lime in a ratio of 1 to 1.3. Due to the presence of chlorine, it is used during the autumn digging of the soil. Cannot be mixed with ash.
Also in spring, fruiting honeysuckle needs phosphorus supplements to further form a good taste in fruits.
I usually use superphosphate (50 g per sq.m.), diluting the powder to a 10% solution. I note that at least a month should pass between nitrogen and phosphorus nutrition.
Potassium affects the root system of the bush, strengthening and healing it. I try to apply these fertilizers in the autumn, so that the honeysuckle has time to prepare for wintering. Of the most effective means, I can single out Cainite (50 g per 1 sq.m.), since it has the least nitrates.
If we consider organic, then my preferences include:
- humus (digging, mulching, solution);
- rotted mullein (infusion, digging);
- wood ash (placer, irrigation solution);
- bird droppings (water solution).
I note that a large amount of organic matter can be no less dangerous than an excess of minerals, the use of any fertilizer should be reasonable and careful.
You should be especially careful when digging - the honeysuckle root system is located from the upper layers.
Folk remedies can be no less effective than professional drugs. I usually use:
- infusion of coffee grounds (source of nitrogen);
- potato broth (additional starch);
- water from the aquarium (the remains of the biological life of fish).
As you can see, the funds I contribute are as diverse as possible in composition and intensity of action.
And what products do you use to feed honeysuckle?
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