What is the difference Screws and Screws: secrets competent professional use

  • Dec 24, 2019

When the repair or construction work constantly has to deal with different types of fasteners. Of these, the most widely used self-tapping screws and screws. These products are similar in appearance but different characteristics and applications. To choose wisely hardware for secure mounting, it is necessary to know the purpose of the element and especially its use.

Screws & Screw
Screws & Screw

1. Screws & Screw: what is the difference

Self-tapping screw and externally similar: both elements have the form of a rod with an external thread and on the top hat. However, the self-tapping thread sharper and usually higher - comes to hats. Another difference - material products. Screws made of solid steel alloys heat treated, which gives them higher strength. For the screws, use a soft steels. Each material advantages and disadvantages. In tightening the screws at the often "licks" slots, but they bend but do not break, unlike the self-tapping screws.

Screws.
Screws.

Screws are mainly used when working with wood. Self-employed as a fastening element for the details not only of wood, but also plastic, metal, drywall and even concrete. Preparing for use is also different. Under the screw need to drill a hole. For the screw is not necessary - it is screwed into the material at the expense of sharp edges of the thread and the tip of the rod.

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Screw.
Screw.

2. Selection for the correct bits with screws

Properly selected bits - the key to comfortable working. In the case of power tools use a nozzle with a flat tip inappropriate. Due to the vibration of such bit is constantly slipping with hats. For the work will be packing with a cross tipped more comfortable. They come in two versions:

  • PH (Phillips) - with four edges;
  • PZ (Pozidriv) - with eight ribs (4 main and 4 additional).

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PZ bits provides a great grip area and therefore less susceptible to breakdown at a twisting.

Set bit PH and PZ.
Set bit PH and PZ.

3. Working with self-tapping: the nuances of screwing

It happens that the screw requires a long screw into the workpiece made of a hard material. Without pilot drilling is carried out is difficult. And what do you do if there is no drill required length? In this case, the lubricant will help, for example, paraffin or candles. However, easier and better to use ordinary soap. The thread is rubbed over its entire length of the screw, and then it is easy to enter the material.

After rubbing the soap is easier to screw into the material.
After rubbing the soap is easier to screw into the material.

When screwing the screw into a narrow bar is often the case trouble such as cracking. If the pre-drilled hole, the wood is not split. However, when trying to drown her bonnet can again face the cracks.

When burial hats often have cracks.
When burial hats often have cracks.

To avoid this, the installation location of the screw countersinks. Deepening can do a drill, but it is better to prefer core drills. Particularly useful model in the form of nozzles on the drill bit. They are located in the center of the hole and has a screw to secure the required depth. This solution greatly accelerates the workflow, because they do not have to spend time to replace equipment to drill in the countersink and back.

Helpful advice from Novate.ru: If countersink drill is done, then it should not be very sharp, as the nib is able to "bite" the wood. This can be avoided by applying the reverse mode, but it has a negative impact on the drill bit and sharpened it quickly blunts. Therefore, it is better to buy a countersink.
Chamfering helps avoid cracks in the wood.
Chamfering helps avoid cracks in the wood.

4. Flew slot: a solution

In the process of screwing it often happens that the grooves in the bonnet fasteners "licks" for various reasons. Such a screw or a screw will not turn a screwdriver or a bat, the tool just does not catch hold. Unscrewing defective hardware using extractors.

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They are designed to extract the deformed fasteners of various kinds, with the exception that the self-tapping screws. Screw extractor in hardened steel is practically impossible.

Clamps with a "lick" slots extracted by the extractor.
Clamps with a "lick" slots extracted by the extractor.

If there is no extractor, the screw can be removed by cutting through the slot in the cap with a screwdriver. Chisel for this purpose is not used due to lack of sharpening angle. With the self-tapping this method too does not work due to solid steel alloy.

The groove is cut into the cap with a screwdriver and a hammer /
The groove is cut into the cap with a screwdriver and a hammer /

Screws with erased slots can try to unscrew two ways. Hat treated solder acid was dropped onto the heated solder, and it puts the tip of a screwdriver or bits. After solidification screw twisting. If the solder flew, but screw is a little left over the surface, it is unscrewed, taking a pair of pliers or tongs.

Unscrew the screw with slots can be erased by soldering bit.
Unscrew the screw with slots can be erased by soldering bit.

For the second variant will need cutting disc from Dremel Dremel himself or screwdriver. Use the dial to cut a groove in the cap of the screw, and then twisting a screwdriver or slotted bat.

There are popular ways to extract the fastener with a "lick" hat, such as heating the fastener or the use of a piece of rubber. These methods might work except if the material is not too tight or grooves in the bonnet is not fully erased.

The groove in the cap of the screw can be done using a disk from Dremel.
The groove in the cap of the screw can be done using a disk from Dremel.

5. I broke off the screw head: what to do in this case,

In some cases, when connecting parts made of wood or particle board it is advisable to use self-tapping screws. And sometimes in the course of work can break off the screw cap. To remove such a fastener which is broken to use a ceramic tubular drill of suitable diameter.

The tubular drill.
The tubular drill.

The upper part is drilled throughout its thickness and is detached from the bottom. The shaft of the screw is removed using pliers or plier.

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Details are then collected again, and bore a place picked screw larger or put Intersection tie.

After drilling the upper part and detachable from the bottom, screw partially released and it can be easily unscrewed pincers or pliers.
After drilling the upper part and detachable from the bottom, screw partially released and it can be easily unscrewed pincers or pliers.

For better screwed into the material of the edge of the drill pipe can be treated by giving a serrated shape. To crown it does not "run away" on a smooth surface and does not spoil the detail, begin drilling at an angle of 45 degrees, gradually straightening drill vertically. Or use the drilling template, which you can easily do yourself.

To crown is not "left" on the surface, drilling start at 45 degrees
To crown is not "left" on the surface, drilling start at 45 degrees
Helpful advice from Novate.ru: When drilling tubular chipboard diamond coating drill can burn without sustained heating. Therefore, more economical to use the old drill, it is not suitable for work or buy for such cases cheap Chinese counterparts.

6. If the wall is loose, as the securely screw screw

Sometimes, during the screwing, hardware stubbornly refuses to stay in the wall. Usually this happens because of old age and looseness of the wall material. Fortunately, there are proven tricks that can effectively deal with this problem.

See more: How to securely screw the screw in the soft wall to get reliable and long lasting.

A source: https://novate.ru