It looks nice and neat - it is the desire of every human being. Wrinkled shirt or dress will not give elegance and charm, as is well known - "meet on clothes." Therefore ironing clothes for a long time became a habit in respecting people.
In this they were helped by plain appliances - irons.
First irons were bulky and heavy. As the heating of raw materials they used a red-hot coal.
Another thing - our time. Who irons acquired a beautiful design, lightness and practicality. In addition, modern devices have many useful functions, such as ironing with steam.
But although modern irons - reliable instruments, they are not without drawbacks and sometimes fail.
Buy a new iron sometimes very expensive and not everyone can afford it, and failure often are small and easy to handle.
Below, this article will be described in one of the most common failures of this type of equipment and the method of its removal. You do not need special tools or skills.
So, let's repair. In the photo problematic iron that one day let out a cloud of smoke and no longer included.
Neither shaking nor any action with the regulators did not lead to positive results.
It became clear that it is necessary to disassemble the device.
We must start from the removal of the rear cover. If you look closely, the head of the screw fastening of the cover has an unusual shape for our region. This is done soon to iron does not understand the home and carried directly to the service center.
But these screws are not the problem. Make a screwdriver underneath the screw (Fig. 5) not be easy. It is enough to find an old straight screwdriver, for example, with a broken tip and needle files to saw the middle.
It takes a maximum of 10 minutes, but this tool will come in handy more than once in the future.
Therefore, we can not spare even a whole screwdriver for this purpose. When the tool is ready, unscrew the screw and remove it.
Further, poddevat screwdriver cap bottom, and releasable latch fastening.
Now the lid comes off easily.
Under it is the terminal connection of the supply cable and the inside of the iron wire.
Here, unfortunately, nothing happened. Terminal contacts clean and tight. We'll have to disassemble further.
Remove the top cover (Fig. 10). Initially unscrew two screws in the rear part.
Next, open the cover (Figure 11) for covering an opening for filling the steam chamber with water.
Under the lid hides another fastening screw (Figure 12). Turn off its thin screwdriver.
Using a knife (Fig. 13) release the latch around the perimeter of the design cover.
The last latch to free the front portion, where the spray nozzle (Fig. 14).
Under spray head is another screw (Fig. 15). It holds the upper portion of the plastic body with a metal sole. Turn off it as well.
Now go to the back of the iron (fig. 16). There still find the screws that need to be removed. Like the first, they tighten the rear of the hull and the bottom.
Once the screws are removed, the upper plastic part comes off.
Under it are visible wires that go on in the aluminum soleplate.
Unscrew the three screws of the sole cover.
Underneath the garbage heap, a thermostat and a heating element (figure 17).
First check thermostat (Figure 18). When rotating the handle, at some point, must occur contact gap, accompanied by a click.
Flip does not happen, then contact burnt together. To separate them, you need to carefully insert a screwdriver between them and rotate it (Figure 19).
Contacts must move away from each other. After that, we clean them or needle files of the same screwdriver.
We measure circuit (Figure 20) in one of the extreme positions of the engine controller. The chain must be present.
If not, we rotate in the opposite extreme position. It should appear.
This shows that the thermostat operates, and when it reaches a certain temperature it disconnects the voltage from the heater.
But this is not the main reason for failure of the iron, because the contacts have been closed and the heater did not work.
Look further, and check the heater itself (Fig. 21). To do this, connect to it directly indicator.
It shows the chain and this is good - heater intact.
On the bottom there is another circuit element, which is immediately noticeable. It is about a thermal fuse. It lies within the tube and thermally fixed metal clamp (Figure 22).
Unscrew the clamp and remove the tube.
From this extract the thermal fuse (Fig. 22-1). It is rated at 10 amperes and the temperature was 240 ° C.
When the temperature reaches such values, it disables the line of tension.
At cooling element again conducts current through itself. But if the shutdown occurs very often, this device fails.
Check the integrity of thermal fuse (Figure 23). Connect parallel to the indicator and look at the result. Device shows that fuse breakage.
Therefore, iron and did not work. And he broke down because the thermostat is turned off and the iron greatly overheated. This led to the failure of the thermal fuse.
Hurrah! The reason for failure is found!
It was decided to simply removed from the circuit. If you follow the iron during the operation, he never overheat. Even if the thermostat does not work, you will realize that the appliance is not turned off and do it manually.
Thus, the nibble blown fuse and unscrew it from the heater tip (Figure 24).
Remove the tip (Figure 25) and clamps it on the wire which was attached to the other side of thermal fuse.
Planting it directly on the tip of PETN (Figure 26 and 27).
Now collect the iron in reverse order not to miss anything.
When the apparatus is assembled, it is poured into water and enable the network.
It can be seen that the indicator lights up and the sole is heated. From it comes the steam, and at some point, the thermostat turns off the power.
Iron works great on and off, and it means that the repair can be considered complete.
Also, you can find another one of my Article on this subject, which is considered another reason for failure of the iron.
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