To winter barrels not burst in the fall of them be sure to drain the water, turn over or close. But, what about those cottagers who can not do it? For example - I am. The situation is as follows.
I have around the house are 4 large rain barrels that are constantly filled with water. Before, I just draw it out of the water and tilting barrel on the ground - water left in the passages between the beds. After that, the barrels rolled over and went to the storage shed. But not so long ago about all the flower beds near the house we made decorative wooden fence. It looks such a barrier is fine, but the barrel is not to overturn. If it falls - there is nothing left of the fence. In addition, the barrel roll away for storage, too, will not work. There is only one option - bailing. But, it is very long and quite difficult. (Drums because as much as 4 pieces). I had to look for ways to winter storage barrels full.
The essence of the problem
I began to study this issue and it turned out pretty simple. By freezing the water expands in volume by about 8%. That is, if we have a 200 liter iron drum filled with water, after freezing it would be 216 liters of ice. So that the capacity is not torn, we need to compensate these same 16 liters.
Just drained 16 liters of water from the barrels will not be enough. Volume increases in all directions, so the capacity will still break.
This can be done using conventional 6 liter cans from the water and plastic bottles.
The method
The method consists in the fact that by increasing the volume, the ice will not put pressure on the wall of the barrel and compress the canister which is in water (bottle). That is, after the frost leaves us with wrinkled canister and the whole barrel. All "device" is done in several steps:
- Take 6 liter plastic canister out of the water. The softer the bottle is better. (There are cans of rigid body - these should be avoided);
- Close the canister so that the pressure-sensitive air out through the gap between the lid and the neck. Never leave the canister is fully open, as it eventually flood the rain and she sank deeper into the water;
- The bottom of the canister must be tied rope. The easiest way to do this by tying the canister groove (relief on the bottle itself);
- At the other end of the rope tie a brick. Binds on all 4 sides, otherwise the cord may come off and the goods will remain at the bottom;
- Omit the load into the water holding the rope;
As a result, the canister should be float which 3/4 submerged. Above the water should remain only a neck with a lid ajar.
If you make a float, the barrel is not exactly tear, but can deform. Especially bottom.
Remember when I mentioned to figure out what we need to make up for about 16 liters of volume. Part will go up naturally, I think not more than 5 liters, and the other part we have to compensate themselves.
One canister compensates 5 liters, so it's best to make the float 2.
What to do with the bottom? Not to be arched, dip into the barrel several 2-liter bottles filled with sand or stones. The more air left in them - the better. Of course, the ice will not be able to completely crush the bottle, but part of the volume is still compensated. And do not forget to tie a rope to the bottle, otherwise they will remain lying on the bottom.
This simple method allows you to leave the water in the barrels without fear that they will crack.
The original of this article, as well as other materials about suburban life, you can find on my site - How to leave the barrel in the winter without having to drain the water, so they do not burst