I think many people know: if you screw the screws into aerated concrete, even using dowels, they will hold very poorly and unreliably. Brickwork usually has the same disadvantage. If you screw the suspension to the wall, then you can easily pull it out by the roots. I want to share with you a life hack that does not require special fasteners and fixtures!
In most cases, six plastic dowels are used for repairs (i.e., the diameter is 6 mm), and self-tapping screws are taken 3.5 or 4.2 mm (suitable for working with wood, drywall). However, such a "duet" is a rather weak fixture for aerated concrete and brickwork. Especially when it comes to red brick. The walls from it are loose.
Universal dowels are also common, they are longer and usually orange. Many builders call them "sormats", although this is not their official name. It seems to me that if you screw two sizes into the hole, it will be more reliable.
How to proceed? I see a way out in the following: you need to take dowels or screws of a larger diameter. Let me explain more specifically: as a rule, self-tapping screws with a maximum diameter of 4.2 mm are used for 6 mm dowels. I recommend using thicker screws such as 5mm screws.
Universal dowels will help to achieve greater reliability. Their length is much longer than ordinary varieties. Thanks to this, the area of adhesion between the dowel and the base will be significantly increased. You can also drive in two sizes at once. If you take a self-tapping screw of a larger diameter, then the fastening strength will increase significantly. I understand if you don’t immediately believe my advice, but don’t try - you won’t know!
You can take both a dowel and a screw of a larger diameter, then the effect will be noticeable even with the naked eye. The bottom line is that the adhesion area will reach its maximum values. For work on aerated concrete, I often take 8 mm dowels and 6 mm self-tapping screws. As a result, I get a reliable mount, suitable for assembling the frame under the gypsum board.
I also want to note that when drilling holes for dowels, it is advisable to avoid impact. If you use a hammer drill, then turn on only the drilling mode, and if you use a drill, take a victorious drill.
That's the whole secret! I would love to hear criticism, if any. I would also like to know how you achieve a more reliable mount.
In the photo below, you will see two types of special dowels designed for aerated concrete. I myself have used only screw-shaped nylon for aerated concrete. Only positive impressions, keeps well. Anyone who has experience with metal dowels - share your impressions!
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