It is customary to graft trees for the bark in the spring, when the sap inside the tree begins to actively move. Residents of the southern regions can start grafting plants as early as March; it is better for northern regions to wait until mid-April.
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Preparation
First you need to choose trees that will act as a rootstock and scion. It is better to include trees from 2 to 10 years old to the first. The stock must be healthy, without mechanical damage and burns. The size of the tree to be grafted is determined as follows:
- If you plan to re-graft the whole plant, then you need to cut it, stepping back from the ground 70-100 cm. Additionally, the cut is cleaned, making it smooth and even.
- If the plans are to re-graft individual branches, then they can be cut at a distance of no more than 40 cm from the trunk. Slices are also cleaned and leveled.
The graft, in the role of which the cuttings will act, must be prepared in advance, even in the autumn period. Before the onset of spring, cuttings are recommended to be placed in a dry and cool place where sunlight does not penetrate. A cellar or basement is perfect. You can also use a refrigerator. Before starting the vaccination, 2-3 days before, the scion should be taken to a warm place to warm up.
Tools
Bark grafting requires the preparation of the following instruments:
- knife or secateurs;
- putty in the form of linseed oil, paint or garden varnish;
- strapping material.
As the latter, you can take electrical tape or plaster.
Instructions
The bark grafting is carried out in several stages:
- First, the scion is prepared. To do this, clean the stump until a smooth cut surface is reached.
- Further, neat cuts are made in the bark along the wood. The length of the incisions is no more than 4 cm. A scion will subsequently be implanted into them.
- The third stage involves the separation of the bark from the wood. To do this, use a knife bone. Sometimes several cuts are made if the stock section allows.
- Then they start processing the scion shoots. They are cut into cuttings from 10 to 15 cm long. It is important to make sure that there are 2-3 buds on each cutting. In the lower part of the cutting, an oblique cut is made. The cut length should not exceed 3 cm.
- When all actions are completed, the cutting is implanted into the rootstock bark, leaving up to 1–2 mm of cut outside.
At the end, the vaccination site is tied with electrical tape or plaster, you can also use twine. Experienced gardeners additionally recommend smearing the edges of the bark with plasticine or a special garden varnish.
Reference! The more cuttings are grafted, the less likely the rootstock tissue will die. If all the cuttings are grafted, you can then shorten or even cut off unnecessary processes.
Checking the result
It is possible to determine whether the cuttings have taken root or not in the spring, when 2-3 weeks have passed since the "operation". To check it is enough to slightly loosen the harness. If everything was done successfully, then a small bump of a light shade will appear at the junction of the bark of the two plants. Another sign is buds swollen on the cuttings or cuttings.
It is worth remembering that grafting is an ordeal for trees. They need care. To do this, it is recommended to ensure that the living conditions of the cutting are not complicated by external factors.
Do you know the method of grafting fruit trees by the bark?
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