Beam bent, burst, or began to rot? You don't need to change it (Rebuilding the beam, 3 great ways)

  • Apr 02, 2021
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Beam bent, burst, or began to rot? You don't need to change it (Rebuilding the beam, 3 great ways)

Good afternoon, dear guests and subscribers of my channel!

Most often, wooden floors and the rafter system of old houses suffer, because wood is a natural material, which has a relatively short service life relative to the life span of people from several generations. And, from time to time, we have to repair the houses of our old people.

But, the tree can rot not only due to old age, but due to the fact that the installation technology has been violated, including including the lack of necessary ventilation or neglect of waterproofing the support point of the beam on the stone wall.

In this article, I will cover three practical and workable ways to repair and restore wood beams without completely replacing the entire beam.

Method number 1 - the organization of fights according to the system of V.A. Lovtsky

This method is applicable to all damaged sections of the beam (support ends or middle) and in all cases of damage to the beams, be it deflection, crack or decay. The essence of this method is simple: the undamaged part of the beam is supported from below by a stand, the damaged area is cut out.

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After that, side fights are made, but they are not fixed on the sides to the existing beam, but from above through metal plates (most often corners or channel) using bolted connections.

The advantage of this method is that the deflection of the beam is regulated by nuts, there is no need trim off the humps or insert various bosses to align the beam with the existing overlap.

This system is available for on-site assembly with very low cost and excellent load-carrying capacity. The stiffness of such a beam is 20-30% higher compared to a solid section beam.

With this method, it is possible to increase the length.

Method number 2 - prosthetics of the beam according to the system of S.D. Daidbekova

Literally, this method is called prosthetics using bar prostheses, which are made of metal. This method is more complicated than the previous one due to welded joints and requires the professionalism of the master, but this method is one of the most reliable of the existing ones to this day.

With the help of this system, both the supporting beams and the roof truss system are repaired. A metal prosthesis looks like this:

For horizontal beams:

For inclined rafter legs:

A metal prosthesis is made from two identical trusses using ะค16 and ะค20 reinforcement. The trusses are arranged in parallel and connected with sheet steel, and most often with channels or corners by welding.

It is important to note that the length of the metal prosthesis is equal to twice the length of the cut damaged area. beams, but cannot exceed 1.2 meters due to design features to ensure the necessary rigidity. Therefore, if the damaged part of the beam is more than 60 cm, then the prosthesis is not placed at the end, but moves towards the center and with the help of it the beam is extended along the length.

Method # 3 - prestressed steel straps

This method has proven itself from the best side for eliminating deflections. Before implementing this method, it is important to support the structure from below with a reinforced stand in order to eliminate the deflection of the beam as much as possible.

After that, at the point of maximum deflection of the beam, wooden plates are installed on both sides, bent around by a steel strip with a thickness of at least 2 mm.

Along the edges of the beam, closer to the support ends, undercuts are made, into which metal support corners are embedded. Holes are made in them, into which a reinforcement steel tightening is inserted, which has a thread at the ends. Tightening diameter 30 mm.

This structure is tightened with nuts until the beam takes a horizontal position. After some time, the threaded connection is tightened again.

That's all, thank you for your attention!

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