The secret of an accurate 45-degree cut of a profile pipe. Manually grinder

  • Apr 04, 2021
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The secret of an accurate 45-degree cut of a profile pipe. Manually grinder
The secret of an accurate 45-degree cut of a profile pipe. Manually grinder

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If we cut a profile pipe with a grinder at an angle of 45 degrees to join these pipes at 90 degrees, then we often get huge gaps at the junction. How to cut correctly so that this does not happen.

The secret of an accurate 45-degree cut of a profile pipe. Manually grinder

I took 2 pieces of a 40 x 40 mm profile pipe. Precisely on a square, I made markings for cutting at 45 degrees. I cut it off according to the marking with a grinder. Now we will make a joint at 90 degrees from these pieces and see what happened.

If we lay out the pipes at 90 degrees, then we get a large gap. It increases towards the inner corner of the joint. At the inner corner, this gap will be approximately 4 mm. Such a connection would be problematic to brew.

This is a common problem, it turns out for almost everyone who makes markings in a 45-degree angle. It's just that the length of the cut is always longer than necessary, hence the large gap. How to do it normally? Look.

From the school geometry curriculum, we know how to build this 45 degree angle. Our pipe is 40 by 40 mm. So you need to set aside 40 mm from the end, draw a line, and connect the ends of the lines to the opposite ends of the pipe. Everything is so, but not so!

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This also does not work on the professional pipe, I will show you why later. And we measure 38 mm, 2 mm less. And we also draw a transverse line at this mark. Further more interesting!

We take a grinder and make a slight incision along this line, we do not cut through the metal, but we do it. From the cut line, now draw lines to the ends of the pipe.

The grinder's disk will follow the markings, and when it hits the line that we previously cut, it will go strictly along it. Here the metal is thinner, it will be easier for the disc to deepen exactly in this place, which is what we need.

Plus, it will stick a little on the far edge of the notched groove. With this we will just get those 2 mm that have been subtracted from 40, because you were waiting for an explanation of why you marked it so wrong!

If the required 40 mm were immediately postponed, then the disc will still go beyond the markings by just a couple of millimeters during the cut. And we will get a longer cut than necessary. We will get the same result as with the gon. That's the whole trick. Let's now saw off and see what happened.

I cut it with a small grinder on a 125 disc. My disc is 1.6 mm thick. I gash it on both sides of the pipe. A large grinder can be sawed off with one cut, well, this is only if you have experience.

We put the details at right angles and see the result. The joint turned out with even minimal gaps. There are gaps here and there, but they are a maximum of 2 mm. Such a joint will be easy and quick to weld. That's the whole trick!

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