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We have a small two-storey house of 132 m² made of warm ceramics, the external dimensions of which are 8x10. It was decided to make the heating of the first floor combined, that is, there are two systems there: underfloor heating and radiator heating. On the second floor there are only radiators.
Last year we already celebrated a housewarming and survived the winter, which just checked the heating systems of our house.
In general, I am not a supporter of overpaying for building materials and before doing anything, I will definitely study this topic up and down in order to rationally distribute costs according to the principle price quality. Another construction was a water-heated floor, on which I had already saved a decent amount, contrary to the arguments that the master gave me.
The floors of the first floor are made using the technology of flooring on the ground and, if you know, then almost all builders always do a rough screed (foundation) onto which another screed is subsequently poured, into which the pipes of the warm water are hidden floor.
I questioned this fact and, having studied the issue, acted differently... The basis for the screed with a warm floor was ordinary sand, which I compacted with a rammer. This is not prohibited by building codes and regulations, but it is more profitable for the craftsmen to do additional work! How can we do without them ?!
Having leveled the sand along the lighthouses and compacted it with a rammer, I spread an ordinary, but dense plastic film 200 microns thick on it. Two layers are sufficient to provide sufficient waterproofing so that moisture from the soil does not penetrate the concrete screed.
After the film was spread, I insulated the floor by laying 3 cm thick polystyrene foam. Many advise 5 or even 10 cm. I checked the heat loss on a calculator (https://www.smartcalc.ru) and found out that the difference in the cost of the thickness of the insulation is between 30 and 50 mm. will pay off in 14 years. Agree that there was simply no point in overpaying :-))) Therefore, I chose the cheaper option.
When the master did the calculation of the warm floor for me, he put heat-reflecting foil into the estimate and only on it I needed to spend about 10,000 rubles.
Having studied the reviews and characteristics of the material, I did not buy an expensive heat-reflecting substrate, since I thought that this was extra money thrown out. I bought the usual cheapest profiled geomembrane and spread it on the insulation, covering the entire area of the first floor.
He laid the membrane with protrusions upwards, thereby raising the reinforcing mesh by 2 cm. The mesh was used with a diameter of 4 mm with a mesh size of 20 cm.
I also saved about 50 running meters on the underfloor heating pipe. Due to the fact that I have a floor heating screed came out with a height of 11 cm, I calculated that the step of the pipe can be increased from 15 to 18 cm precisely due to the thickness screeds.
If the screed is narrow, then with a large pipe pitch, there is a risk of getting cold areas (stripes) of the floor. The thicker the screed, the less this effect decreases, as shown in the figure below.
With the same pipe pitch, a narrow screed may heat up unevenly.
Pipe laying:
On the floor, I got four contours: one 55 m, the other three I made 78 m each. The kitchen-living room is divided into 2 contours, the third is a bathroom and an entrance hall, the last contour is a bedroom and a corridor.
I don’t do a warm floor under the bed - I’ve already learned from my parental home that the fifth point is “on fire” and it’s not very comfortable to sleep :-)
Photo fragments when making a semi-dry machine screed:
As a result, the whole pie underfloor heating on floors on the ground looks like this:
Where have I cut costs?
- No foundation (rough screed);
- No reflective foil;
- Insulation thickness 30 mm instead of 50 mm .;
- Didn't roll out the underfloor heating pipe under kitchen furniture and under beds;
- There is no foundation, so there is no bituminous waterproofing. I managed with inexpensive plastic wrap and geomembrane.
As a result, I saved about 25,000 rubles on materials.
The warm floor has already shown itself in action and the first cold season has passed! We use it in a comfortable floor mode when the floor surface does not exceed 24 ° C. If it gets very cold outside the window, then the floor temperature does not increase, and heating is connected to it due to radiators.
Having saved a decent amount, we got a very good option for the construction of a warm floor!
I really hope that the article was useful to you!
Thank you for the attention!