Planting fruit trees in the fall attracts me more than holding this event in the spring. There is enough free time after harvest. The necessary moisture accumulates in the soil. If you do not miss the optimal time, then the seedlings have time to take root well. They winter well, and actively develop in spring. It is important to provide protection for young trees from rodents and cold.
Landing dates
In autumn, it is advisable to plant the most cold-resistant fruit varieties. These include rowan, apple, cherry plum, as well as plum and cherry. For peaches, apricots, cherries, spring is the best planting season.
In the northern regions, it is important not to be late with disembarkation. They practice it in September. For the middle Russian zone, the first half of October is considered the optimal time. In the south, you can start planting in the first or second decade of November.
Landing scheme
I carefully study the characteristics of each culture. This allows you to choose the most suitable place and develop a landing pattern. Apples, pears, plums need good lighting.
I maintain the distance to communications and the house at least 4.5 m, which will not allow the roots to damage the pipes or foundation as they grow.
I draw your attention to the compatibility of cultures. I don't plant apricots next to cherries. I do not put cherry plum or peach near the apple tree. Walnut is recognized as an absolute antagonist. He needs to find a place away from any fruit crops.
Preparatory stage
The dimensions of the planting holes are related to the root system. On average, a stone variety requires a depth of 60-65 cm, and a diameter of 40-45 cm. For seedlings of pome species, the depth of the pit reaches 75-80 cm with a diameter of about 65-80 cm. Of course, if necessary, I increase these dimensions if the roots are longer.
I remove the fertile surface layer separately. Place drainage at the bottom of the pit. I use fine gravel. A sand and gravel mixture, coarse river sand is suitable.
I examine the seedlings. With a sharp pruner with disinfected blades, I cut off rotten, dry, broken areas of the roots.
Landing
I pour 25-30 kg (per hole) of well-ripened compost and 2.5-3 glasses of sifted ash into the soil set aside during the arrangement of the planting pits. I also use rotted manure for this purpose. I supplement organic matter with superphosphate (10 tbsp. l.). If the soil is dense, clayey, you will need to add about 3 buckets of coarse sand.
I securely drive a strong peg into the bottom of the hole. I pour in a little of the prepared fertile soil substrate and set the seedling upright. Gently, slightly compacting the layers, I fill in the voids. I control that the root collar of pears, apples, plums rises 50-60 mm above the surface. For cherries, this size is 40-50 mm.
When the pit is 10-15 cm full, pour 2-3 buckets of settled water into it. After that, I put the soil mixture to the top and mulch the surface. I use sawdust. You can take hay, foliage.
Then I water it only if the weather is dry. If it rains regularly, the seedlings do not need water.
It is not recommended to whitewash young trees. To keep rodents out, you need to install a strong, frequent net around. If a frosty winter is expected, I wrap the plantings on top with spunbond.
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