Sometimes perennials can do without preparation and tolerate winter well. But for the rest, it is vital to provide additional protection. Further, in order, I will tell you about my plants and all the necessary procedures.
Aquilegia
I usually do not insulate this plant, since it is frost-resistant. With the onset of October, I cut off the shoots that have wilted, leaving stumps of 6 centimeters. Dry leaves are suitable for shelter.
Astilba
A young plant can spend the winter without insulation. In early November, I prune black shoots to the very root, and mulch using humus or peat (5 centimeters layer). I add dry leaves to all adult plants on top, and then spunbond and a film.
Aster
When the asters bloom and dry up, I cut the stems at the root. Then I use dry leaves as mulch. And I still cover all weak plants with spruce branches.
Geichera
With the approach of cold weather, I remove each peduncle, and leave the leaves. I mulch the soil under the bushes with a mixture of dry peat, sphagnum and humus. And when the frost becomes regular, I cover the bushes with spruce branches.
Delphinium
If the snow layer is very thick, then the plant is able to withstand very low temperatures. But if there is not much snow, then you need to cover it. When the delphinium fades, I cut the peduncles, leaving 15 cm, and use clay to lubricate the slices. I mulch with spruce branches.
Lycetra
This plant does not tolerate severe frosts. Therefore, after pruning all sluggish shoots (hemp should be 5 cm), I mulch the bases of the bushes. I use peat and then a thick layer of spruce branches.
Lavender
Without preparation, only narrow-leaved (English) lavender can survive the winter. With the arrival of autumn, I shorten the plants just above the shoot, which is lignified. I mulch the soil, and then I put spruce branches, covering everything with a thick layer. But, in order not to risk it, if the climate is too cold, I recommend replanting lavender in a container and taking it to a warm room for the winter.
Day-lily
After flowering, I remove the peduncles, and after wilting, I cut the leaves at the root. Peat is suitable for mulching, and on top is a layer of spruce branches and a little snow.
Mallow
I cut off the withered part, and dry leaves, peat or humus are suitable for mulching. Sometimes I cover it with a layer of spruce branches so that the plant does not freeze.
Monarda
I cut dry shoots and mulch with peat. When the frosts get stronger, I add dry leaves.
Peonies
I recommend pruning before the frost arrives. Cut off, leaving a portion of 15 centimeters from the soil. I use humus or rotted compost as mulch. I cover the young bushes with a layer of spruce branches.
Hosta
I cut off the dry leaves and mulch the bush with peat.
Panicled phlox
I cut it off before the frost arrives, leaving a stump of 6-10 centimeters. I advise you to huddle rhizomes by adding compost or humus. I mulch the bushes with peat. If there is a little snow in the winter, then I always pour a bucket of loose earth from the garden on top of the bush, and then cover the mound with spruce branches or reeds.
Chrysanthemums
Before the cold weather, I cut off and leave the hemp with a maximum of 10 centimeters. I huddle the bases of the bushes using humus, and mulch with peat on top. In case of a snowless winter, I use an additional layer of dry leaves and spruce branches. But when the winter is very harsh, I dig out the plants and place them in a cool place (temperature 1-5 ° C).
All these procedures help me to preserve my garden even at the onset of the coldest winter, and with the onset of spring it again pleases with its beauty.
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#perennial flowers#preparing for winter#autumn