The standard rose is an elegant decorative tree that harmonizes well with the design of the garden and can become its real highlight. Not knowing the intricacies of care, many do not dare to breed this gorgeous plant. Although planting and caring for standard roses is somewhat different than for spray roses, in general it is absolutely easy to grow them. Below I will tell you about planting a rose on a trunk, caring for it and sheltering for the winter.
Landing by the rules
In reality, standard roses do not belong to any particular variety and are not trees. They are obtained by grafting different varieties to one stem (stem) extending from the root. At the same time, you can change its size yourself and thus get trees of different heights.
Roses on the stem attract me with lush and long flowering, which begins much earlier than that of bush roses. In my garden, they grow both as a tapeworm and in small groups. My dream is to grow a "bouquet" of several varieties and colors of roses on one trunk.
I want to warn you that in order to get a beautiful and healthy tree, you must follow certain planting rules. Since the graft is located in the upper part of the trunk, with the onset of cold weather it will definitely need to be protected from frost. And for this you have to bend the trunk to the ground for cover. But the bole is frost-resistant and hibernates with us without problems.
You can start planting an unusual type of plant from April to May, as this is the most favorable period for the rooting of the stem. At this time, the soil is already warmed up enough (about 15 degrees) and there are no significant temperature changes. In order not to damage the plant, I plant roses at an angle. Here's how I do it:
- For planting, I choose a place so that the rose tree feels comfortable. The ideal planting site should be in a well-lit area, away from drafts. Shaded areas and proximity to groundwater are not suitable.
- The standard type is undemanding to the soil, almost any soil is suitable for planting it, with the exception of sandy loam and loamy substrates.
- Before planting, I update the sections at the roots of the seedling.
- I put wet moss on the graft and fix it with twine.
- Then I wrap the grafting and the entire upper part of the rose with lutrasil. This is to prevent the grafting and shoots from drying out while rooting and bud awakening occurs.
- I place the seedling in the hole at an inclination of 45 degrees, and spread the roots in the direction opposite to the inclination of the trunk, so that when they are sheltered for the winter they are less injured.
- At the same time as the seedling, I place a peg in the planting hole (it should be 10 cm higher than the graft).
- After about 3 weeks (during this time, the plant is rooting), I gently give the stem a vertical position and tie it to the support.
There is one more important nuance that you definitely need to pay attention to when planting a rose. On the trunk at the very roots, if you look closely, you can find a slight bend. So, you need to tilt the rose in the direction of the bend, otherwise the trunk may break in preparation for winter.
Further care: watering, feeding, preventive measures to combat diseases and harmful insects does not differ from caring for any other roses. However, wild shoots periodically grow on the stock and from the roots of standard roses. They must be disposed of immediately, otherwise most of the nutrients will be spent on their growth, and not on the development of the rose. Such a growth must be cut into a ring at the point of growth.
Care
After planting, the standard rose should be watered frequently during the first three weeks. Then watering is carried out depending on the weather. I water the bushes in the evening or in the morning, after which I mulch so that the moisture evaporates more slowly. I usually use peat for mulch.
In order for water to better penetrate deep into the soil, it must be loosened regularly. I make small holes so the water does not spread.
I begin to apply fertilizers in spring, before the leaves bloom. First, I feed the bushes with nitrogen to stimulate the growth of green mass. In the summer, during the formation of buds, I add calcium and phosphorus. These substances make leaves and petals stronger and more intense in color. Since August, I stop feeding so that the growth of the branches slows down. In mid-September, I apply potash fertilizers to help the branches to lignify. This is necessary for normal wintering.
Disease and pest control
The standard rose is susceptible to attacks by many pests. She is also often affected by fungal diseases. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments:
- From aphids, sawflies, weevils, whiteflies and caterpillars. To combat these pests, I use Actellik, Karbofos or Aktaru. You need to breed in accordance with the instructions. To make the effect stronger, I alternate these drugs.
- From the bear. This pest loves the smell of manure, which is often used to mulch rose gardens. To fight the bear I use a special preparation "Rubit". During planting, I spread it around the bush.
- Fighting black spot. In rainy years, this disease occurs especially often. For prophylaxis, roses are sprayed with Topaz or Purest flowers. You need to start processing from mid-June. The interval between spraying is 2 weeks.
- Controlling powdery mildew. The disease occurs in the case of a thickened planting. It can also appear in a rainy season. To prevent powdery mildew, I dust the plants and the ground near them with wood ash.
- Rust. You can get rid of rust on roses by spraying with a Bordeaux mixture solution. For prevention, I carry out treatments before shelter for the winter and early spring.
Shelter for the winter
First, the roses need to be bent to the ground. If you have a plant with a thin trunk, then there will be no problem with this. But it is problematic to bend roses with thick boles.
This is done in several passes so as not to damage the barrel. Take the crown of the plant and bend it down to the lowest possible position, and then secure it with a rope. In this form, the plant should be left for a week.
After a week, you need to continue bending the rose. Re-fix it in a new position and leave it on for another week. This must be done until the plant takes the required position.
During the shelter, you should not put roses on bare ground, since during periods of thaw, the plant will rot. I put spruce branches as bedding. You can also use boards, styrofoam, plastic bottles, etc.
After that, I lay the tree in a horizontal position, fix and fill the grafting site with peat. Now I put dry leaves on the crown. I cover the top with several layers of spunbond and fix the canvas.
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