Grapes are a thermophilic culture that, with proper care, actively grows and bears fruit abundantly in temperate and even northern latitudes. One of the important activities is pruning. I want to dwell on it in more detail.
Why do grapes need pruning in spring
I recommend that the event be carried out before the start of sap flow, so that the plant evenly distributes nutrients to the young branches. On the lower part of the bush, the eyes do not develop, I will definitely take this into account when carrying out the procedure.
Spring pruning has the following goals:
- Removal of broken, frozen shoots.
- Improving ventilation of the bush.
- Correct formation.
Procedure time
I recommend starting the event when warm weather is established outside, at least 5 ° C, and the threat of return frosts has passed.
I choose a dry and calm day so as not to provoke infection of the plant with fungal diseases.
I advise you to pay special attention to the tool. It must be well sharpened so as not to cause wounds and mechanical damage to the plant.
I disinfect the pruning shears or pruning shears in a solution of potassium permanganate or rub with alcohol to keep bacteria out of the cut.
I make a cut at an angle of 90o. It should be as smooth and even as possible, without splits or cracks.
I carry out spring pruning, adhering to certain rules.
Pruning rules
To get the most out of the procedure, I recommend taking into account some of the nuances:
- A square cut will tighten and heal faster.
- It is always necessary to remove diseased branches, regardless of the pruning scheme.
- For normal growth, I leave 7 to 12 buds on the shoot.
- I very carefully cut off young, fruiting branches. I act in such a way as not to damage perennial wood. To do this, I make a small stump, up to 0.5 mm in diameter.
- For fruiting, I leave shoots, the thickness of which is at least 6 mm.
- Be sure to cut thin and fatty ones - more than 10 mm.
I spend spring pruning taking into account the formation of a bush. The most popular: standard and without a stem.
Stamper
The event is carried out depending on the age of the bush.
In the spring of this year, I cut the seedling so that no more than 2 eyes remain on it. This will give you the opportunity to get two strong and healthy shoots.
In the second year, I leave the main shoot, the stem. I shorten it to the required height: from 50 to 85 cm. I advise you to keep one more, a spare.
In the third year on the trunk, I remove all the vines, with the exception of the two topmost ones. I shorten them to 2 eyes, tie them to the trellis, directing them in different directions.
In the fall, I recommend pruning 4 shoots that have grown over the summer. I do this:
- I shorten the lower branches on both sides to 2 eyes. I form replacement knots - from it and the vine I form a fruit link.
- I cut off the upper ones to 10 eyes - these are the arrows of fruiting or an annual fruiting vine.
In the fourth year, I cut off the vines that bear fruit, their place is taken by replacement knots.
Pruning grapes without a stem
An event that also has its own subtleties.
In the first year after planting, I do sanitary pruning. I remove all dry, broken branches with signs of disease.
For the second year, I leave no more than 60% of the young growth. I choose the 2 sturdiest sleeves and cut them down to the second kidney.
In the third year, you can already begin to form the fruit link. I carry out the event in this way:
- I shorten the lower vine to 2 true buds.
- Top - up to 7.
- I leave no more than 2 vines on each sleeve.
By following the rules of pruning, I get a healthy, fruiting plant. The grapes pleases with an abundant harvest from season to season.
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