Summer grafting is possible if the selected plant is still very young, preferably not older than one year. At the same time, the thickness of the scion (the grafted branch) should not exceed 1.5 cm, and the graft itself should be located as close as possible to the main trunk.
Pros of the procedure
From the comparative advantages, I can highlight several significant factors:
- faster cultivation of the fruit tree (the period is reduced by almost a year);
- a more accurate picture of the state of the rootstock, a visual assessment of its readiness for grafting;
- after a spring failure, a second attempt will not let you lose time;
- summer vaccinations are easier to take root and require less care;
- more suitable rootstocks;
- due to easier fusion, the place of summer vaccination is almost imperceptible;
- the successful course of the procedure can be judged in the same autumn.
In general, I can safely say that the summer grafting of young apple trees is a profitable, quick and, in general, uncomplicated event.
Preparatory measures
The most suitable time for the procedure is the first half of August. At this time, the young branches have already stopped growing, and the axillary buds are ripe and ready for grafting. A more accurate time is determined by a specific tree, since many factors affect the readiness of the apple tree.
External signs of tree readiness for grafting:
- completed formation of the apical bud of the cutting;
- a decrease in internodes on the upper part of a one-year-old cutting;
- the tightness of the bark (if the bark easily moves away from the branch when notched, then the tree is ready).
I note that early varieties are grafted first.
For grafting, a cutting with growth buds is suitable (they differ from flowering buds in an elongated shape similar to a candle), stiff, smooth skin and strong healthy foliage. Shoot parameters: length - from 30 cm, cut diameter - 6 mm.
Experienced gardeners harvest grafts in the morning (up to 10 o'clock). After cutting, the branches are placed in the shade, the top and green leaf plates with stipules are cut off (the cuttings are left), and the cut point is wrapped with a damp cloth or dipped in settled water.
Step by step process
There are many ways to graft fruit trees, but only budding is suitable for summer time. To carry it out, you will need a special budding knife with a special sharp “heel”.
The most popular type of budding for apple trees is "T-cut".
- The stock is tilted, a transverse cut is made to the wood from 2.5 to 3.5 cm long.
- From the center of the transverse incision, a longitudinal length of 1 to 3 cm is made (outwardly, the letter “T” will turn out).
- The corners of the cut bark are lifted with a knife.
- A suitable bud is chosen on the cutting of the scion.
- A grafting shield is cut out (the skin is cut above and below the kidney at a distance of 1.5 cm from it in each direction, then make a longitudinal slot, capturing wood and bark with a kidney, which should be located on the shield in the middle).
- The shield is inserted into the incision on the rootstock, placing it between the edges of the bark. The kidney should be located in the middle of the longitudinal incision.
- Firmly shift the sections of the bark to position the scion as tightly as possible.
- The grafting site is wrapped with polyethylene and strapped. The “bandage” is carried out from the bottom up, very tight and without gaps, leaving a gap only for the bud of the scion.
- Not bandaged places are covered with garden pitch.
The binding winding is removed from the rootstock after 20 days. This time is enough to understand whether the procedure was successful - the grafted branch will be fixed and begin to grow.
Do you plant fruit trees in your garden?
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