The most interesting stage for me in the construction of the bath was the construction of the pool. First of all, I started digging a foundation pit. The pit area was half a meter larger than the area of the future pool.
I made the bottom with a slight slope, and in the deepest place I installed a drain pipe with a diameter of 10 centimeters. The base was poured with a cake of a 10 cm layer of concrete, reinforcing mesh and a second concrete layer of the same thickness.
Immediately after the bottom was poured, I installed and secured wooden formwork panels, laid reinforcement mesh, concreted the walls and docked the concrete. If I did everything correctly, then in the future I will not have to face the appearance of seams between the walls and the bottom of the pool. The concrete layer on all elements came out approximately the same - about 25 centimeters.
He poured the pool bowl in one step so that the reliability of the structure would not suffer. Before the final hardening of the concrete, he "drove" air bubbles out of it with a vibrating hammer. It took a month to dry the concrete. So that cracks do not appear on the surface due to drying out, I periodically watered it with water.
When the concrete was finally frozen, I removed the formwork and switched to plastering with a cement screed (~ 2 centimeters thick). To fix the plaster to the surface, I used special waterproof alloys for working with latex - they make the plaster elastic and waterproof.
I carried out waterproofing of the pool cheap and cheerful - with the help of PVC film. The film was covered over the entire inner surface of the bowl using a mounting strip. This material is convenient in that it combines the properties of a waterproofing and cladding. In addition to the low price, I chose PVC film for two reasons: it is insensitive to chemicals and easy to clean.
I will not dwell on the construction of the bath itself in detail, otherwise this post will stretch for kilometers. I will outline the main points. I bought a log house for a bath ready-made. They helped me in assembling the log house, so we did it quickly - in just a couple of days. To fasten the crowns, spike staples up to 15 centimeters long and with a tooth of 7 centimeters were used. The rafters were attached to the last crown of the frame with spike staples. The roof was covered with slate with a half-meter overlap on the walls.
I did the blind area like this: 1) removed the top layer of the earth and deepened by 20 cm at a distance of half a meter from the base; 2) laid a 10 cm layer of gravel and leveled it; 3) laid expansion joints and poured a 10 cm layer of concrete; 4) before the concrete hardens, covered it with dry cement; 5) three days later, covered the line of intersection of the blind area and the foundation with bitumen.
The interior decoration was carried out according to the standard scheme - first a heater, then a vapor barrier film and at the end a lining. The ceiling consists of two layers: rough and finishing. I attached the draft to the roof joists and insulated with expanded clay. From inside the steam room, I attached insulation and a film for vapor barrier to the rough ceiling. I took a linden board for decoration.