After passing the light, I switched to the bath door. I wanted to order it first, but I calculated the prices and decided that I would do it myself. I have no carpenter skills, so I started working at my own peril and risk. The door was sheathed with aspen clapboard, insulated with styrofoam and a wooden handle.
It didn't take long to fiddle with the bath window. Window frames were used by those that remained in the storerooms after the renovation. I inserted 5 mm glass into the frame, made a couple of 20 mm holes and passed two metal rods.
I have two requirements for the flooring - heat retention and tightness. I laid the floors in a few steps:
1. I screw the subfloor with 50 mm screws;
2. I insert layers of foam (50 mm) in the spaces between the timber;
3. I process cracks and joints with polyurethane foam. I carry out the work in a separate corner to the exit. it is forbidden to step on the laid foam;
4. I remove excess polyurethane foam with a construction knife (otherwise the floorboard will lie unevenly);
5. I take a 40 mm thick board, press it tightly against the wall with a groove and screw it onto the screws;
6. I insert the second groove into the comb of the previous board and press it with a clamp until all the cracks disappear;
7. I screw the boards to the logs using screws. I close the gap that remains between the foundation of the furnace and the floor with polyurethane foam;
8. Checking the floor for blowing with a candle. The flame is even - which means all the cracks are sealed. The floor is ready!
We pass to the most crucial moment - the installation of the stove. Since the safety of the bath depends on the quality of the stove, you should take it responsibly. I bought my stove in a specialized center (a certificate was attached to it).
Regardless of how high-quality the stove is, it must be bricked for the same safety. I took a standard collapsible cast iron stove.
Before proceeding with the installation of the stove, I did the preparatory work, which included:
· Checking the passage of the chimney between the ceiling beams and the roof rafters;
· Insulation of the rafter with basalt fiber + wrapping the pipe with asbestos cloth. I made another basalt layer on top of the asbestos. this material is considered carcinogenic.
When all the preparations are completed, you can get down to business. For the installation of chimneys, I purchased a main stainless steel pipe (1 mm). All other pipes will be attached to it, so you cannot save on material. The installation procedure is as follows:
1. I put the pipe on the branch pipe and fasten it with a clamp. I coat all joints with heat-resistant sealant;
2. I put a valve on the pipe - the operation is optional, but desirable;
3. I cut a hole in the ceiling for the PPU. I process the points of contact between polyurethane foam and wood using asbestos;
4. I insert a sandwich into the PUF and fix it with an adapter to the 1st pipe;
5. I take the sandwich to the attic and make a hole in the sloped surface on the roof. I make an incision with a thin drill using a drill. The hole itself is cut with a jigsaw;
6. I bring the last sandwich pipe to the roof. I put a master flush on the pipe so that water does not get inside the bath;
7. I attach a flame arrester to the top of the pipe.
The last two days I spent on laying a brick wall around the stove, attaching shelves and making benches for the steam room. Finally, it's time to take the samovar and other accessories to the bathhouse to create an atmosphere. In the corner, a place was found for wicker bast shoes, carved boards comfortably settled on the walls.
In terms of cost, I counted the following figures:
Five cubes of timber (6 thousand rubles. per cube);
Four packages of cement (500 rubles. a piece);
· Lining, boards, timber ~ 100,000 rubles;
· Roofing material, cement, foil, nails, electrification ~ 30 thousand rubles;
· Pipes for the furnace, brick, polyurethane foam, acrylic ~ 30 thousand rubles.
· Metal tiles ~ 2 thousand rubles.
Approximate total: 194,000 rubles.