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The task of obtaining the maximum yield from a potato plantation worries every summer resident. This question remains relevant throughout the season.
We hasten to share some secrets of growing fruitful potatoes with you.
1. Disinfection of seeds before planting. The quality of the planting material primarily affects the yield. For planting, select only healthy tubers without signs of rot, which should be disinfected. This will prevent the plant from pests and diseases.
Boric acid solution, which will become a "medicine" for resistance and growth stimulant, prepare as follows: dissolve 15 g of boric acid, 5 g of copper sulfate and 0.5 g of dry potassium permanganate in a bucket of water. Stir, sprinkle or soak in a large bowl.
2. The cuts in the tubers stimulate growth. Before the formation of eyes on the potato, it is recommended to make longitudinal, transverse or circular cuts.
What for?
In order for the sprouts on the tubers to form in additional places and to grow faster!
You need to cut the tubers only with a knife disinfected in alcohol or a solution of potassium permanganate. An annular cut should be made shallow, 1 - 2 cm, longitudinal and transverse, on the contrary, deep, not reaching the border of the opposite side by only 1 cm. Due to the additional sprouts formed, the tubers will give many stems, which means more yield.
3. For resistance to diseases and pests. The seeds will be resistant to pests, diseases and will grow quickly if given the opportunity to "turn green". To do this, 2 - 3 days before planting, hold the cut tubers in the sun, and put them under cover at night.
4. Sun orientation. The maximum yield of potatoes can be obtained by growing them on the southern slope. It is better to plant where legumes, cucumbers, pumpkin or cabbage grew last season. Or green manures sown in the fall - if the potato field remains in the same place.
Route the potato grooves from north to south. The eastern side will be illuminated and warmed by the sun in the first half of the day, and the western side will catch up in the afternoon. As a result, all the bushes will receive the maximum amount of heat and light, which will affect the increase in yield.
5. Method of planting potatoes in the ridges. It is better to plant sprouted tubers on the ridges no deeper than 8 - 10 cm, observing the distance between the holes 70 cm. This fit will provide good air circulation. In case of dry summer, water several times per season between ridges along the groove. There is no need to water during a rainy summer.
6. Feeding potatoes three times a day. Potatoes, like any plant, need nutrition, which can be provided by three feedings per season (the calculation is given for 10 running meters of the field):
- Active growth of the stems will provide a mixture of half a bucket of humus with 10 tsp of urea.
- Abundant flowering will be if you combine a fourth of a bucket of ash with 10 tsp of potassium sulfate.
- The growth of tubers will be affected by 2 tablespoons of superphosphate.
7. Strength of the tuber from breaking the stem. After flowering, break the stems 15 cm above the ground. Break it so that the stem does not lose its integrity, but cannot rise. The secret is that the nutrients directed to the growth of the stem, in the place of the fracture, make a turn and go to the roots, and all the useful microelements go to the tubers.
8. A double harvest is on the agenda!. You can really get it. Try to carry out the procedure on at least a few bushes: cut off an early potato bush dug in June all large tubers for food, and leave small ones on the root, which is again planted in the same hole (previously pour). The bush will take root and will give another harvest by autumn.
9. A union of several varieties. Choose several varieties of potatoes for planting, some preferring wet weather and others preferring dry and hot weather. In a dysfunctional year you will not be left without potatoes - some variety will delight you with the harvest! Original article
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