"It will stand for a long time and rooted to the spot"

  • Dec 11, 2020
click fraud protection
"It will stand for a long time and rooted to the spot" - the master showed 3 features of the installation of the curb, which I did not know about [my photos]

Good afternoon, dear guests and channel subscribers!

At the beginning of October, I started arranging the yard area and today I would like to describe the process of installing the curb using the technology of a familiar master who has been doing this for more than 15 years. I confess that I did not even know some of the features, even after watching a dozen videos.

On my own behalf, I want to note that the work itself in technical performance is not difficult, but it requires strength, since the curb stone itself has an impressive weight. During the first working day, I managed to install 19 curbs, which, in my opinion, is not bad for the first time.

As we know, the curb is an element that is laid on the upper layers of the soil, prevents the paving slabs from slipping and gives the whole structure a finishing touch. And since it prevents the tiles from sliding off, an unrivaled vertical stability against lateral pressure must be maintained!

Therefore, rule number 1:

Lateral fixation of the stone is carried out with the application of masonry mortar on both sides, but not 2, 3 or 5 cm. as many do, but to a height of not less than 1/3 of the total height of the product:

instagram viewer

Rule # 2

The grade of concrete / masonry mortar is used at least M250.

I used a high-strength cement-based mortar M500 D20 in a volume ratio with sand 1: 2 (~ M300)

You can use the ratio and 1: 2.6, then this is M 250.

The fact is that such solutions are also waterproofing, and the secret is that the ratio of 1: 1.5 and 1: 2 is used in as a shut-off waterproofing instead of roofing material between the foundation and the wall when building houses in seismically hazardous areas (according to SNiP). The rules say that waterproofing based on cement mortar has a much better adhesive effect than just a layer of roofing material laid, thereby eliminating the sliding effect.

The purpose of using such a solution is one: since the solution is in a humid zone, precipitation and a critical temperature regime negatively affect it. freeze / thaw, therefore, it is required to minimize the penetration of water into the hardened mixture, preventing destruction.

Rule # 3

In fact, the curb is a temporary construction. A "super" foundation is not made under it below the freezing depth, it is simply impractical, and no matter how much rubble and sand poured into the base, this structure is in any case subject to frost swelling. Anyway! The frozen ground lifts the whole thing.

Therefore, in order to extend the lifespan of the curb stone and avoid cross-chipping of the laid curbs along the path of the house, reinforcement must be laid. A diameter of 6-10 mm is quite enough.

The reinforcement should be grooved, since smooth reinforcement has less effective anchorage. There are cases with the effect of its slipping inside concrete.

Step-by-step curb laying

1. We remove the fertile layer and tamp the crushed stone. The thickness of the bedding is 2-5 cm.

2. We put reinforcement

3. We lay the mortar horizontally, providing a protective layer - 3 cm. We install the curb, adjusting its position with a rubber mallet and apply the mixture with a "slide" on both sides for lateral fixation:

4. Done

That's all, I really hope that the article has become useful to you!

If you missed any point, welcome with questions in the comments :-)))

Thanks for attention!

"Even an elephant won't push through!" - Uzbek gave very good advice on how to reliably compact the soil. I laughed, then saw and apologized

All the pros and cons of the soft (hidden) blind area. What time did the blind area of ​​the 8x10 house leave me [many photos]

Strip foundation with sole. On the advice of the builder - I took a chance and filled the entire foundation in one go [my photos]