- "Wife, look what I filmed."- I turned to my wife showing photos on the computer monitora.
- "Here you have nothing to do, how to remove toilets." - The other half told me.
- "So this is a photo instruction for Zen readers, so that even a" child "can cope with replacing the tank fittings without calling a locksmith and saving money." I objected to her.
- "Let's check it out." - The wife answered by looking at a lot of photos, which were taken with difficulty for subscribers and readers of the channel.
- "Yes, indeed, if you look at the photo, you can believe in yourself and do the work of a plumber. If not easily, then with confidence that it will turn out not to break the white friend. "- The wife summed it up.
The cistern valve is a mechanism responsible for draining and filling the water in the toilet. It needs to be replaced periodically due to wear, fouling with water stone, breakdowns.
Replacing the tank fittings
Replacing the inside of the tank is done in a public toilet due to a leak between the tank and the toilet.
There will be a lot of close-up photos, leaf through the gallery.
We shut off the water either on a separate branch, or the central tap on the cold water supply riser
We unscrew the button of the toilet bowl, counterclockwise. If it does not unscrew and slips, then wear rubber gloves, it will be easier to unscrew. Remove the lid, carefully lay it on the floor, flat, do not lean against anything... smash.
We drain the water from the porcelain container. Lowering your hand into the "tank", unscrew the upper part of the drain mechanism counterclockwise.
We unscrew the "filling mechanism" by the fluted clamping nut.
Remove the water-inlet hose with a 22-24 wrench or an adjustable wrench.
The tank is attached to the toilet with two bolts, they must be unscrewed. This is where difficulties arise, sometimes. The first bolt was unscrewed with two 10 wrenches. We hold the bolt from the inside with one key. Unscrew the nut second from the outside of the tank.
Problems arose with the second nut and bolt. The edges of the bolt rusted under the influence of moisture and the edges "licked". Therefore, it is not possible to grasp the bolt with a wrench.
There is only one way out of this situation, we cut off the bolt with a hacksaw blade. We will cut between the cistern and the toilet.
As a result, five minutes of "dropping" movements with the hacksaw blade allows you to empty the tank.
Sweating a little with bolts, separate the earthenware container from the toilet and unscrew the lower part of the plastic mechanisms. We also wipe the contact areas of new parts. If possible, wash the tank. I have no such opportunity, so I just wipe it.
New toilet cistern fittings
If you are changing the in-tank mechanism for the first time, then I strongly recommend reading the instructions for a more accurate understanding of the principle of installation and operation of the drain mechanism. Immediately I changed the cuff that came with the kit for my own, better one, it will not fall into the hole of the toilet when installing the tank.
We twist the new parts into the "washed tank". First we tighten the "saddle" of the drain mechanism without the upper part. Next, we install the assembled float mechanism. Attention! Rubber cuffs on the threads always remain inside the tank, do not mix it up, friend. All plastic couplings are tightened by the force of your bare hand, do not use tools. An adjustable wrench on a plastic nut is shown as an example of how NOT to do it.
We install a rubber sleeve on the nut of the drain mechanism. We immediately twist the water inlet hose for ease of installation. Place the prepared cistern on the toilet. Be careful, without the mounting bolts, it can fall off the toilet.
First of all, we put a plastic washer on the bolt, then a silicone gasket. We install them in the places where the rusty bolts were earlier.
We put an elastic band, a plastic washer on these bolts from the bottom of the tank and tighten the nut. We tighten the nuts evenly on both sides, making sure that the tank sits exactly in relation to the toilet seat. Measure the uniformity with a ruler. No need to tighten the nuts with all the dope. Gently, evenly with little effort. Thus, we will not break anything and achieve tightness.
Having tightened the bolts, we twist the drain mechanism into place. Having lowered it into the "saddle", turn it with a slight movement clockwise until it clicks or until it stops. We twist the eyeliner on the toilet to the faucet.
We make the first run of water, open the tap. We check the tightness between the tank and the toilet, observe the filling mechanism.
I had to unfold it so that the float did not touch the wall, for this I loosened the lower nut and turned the mechanism, then pulled it back.
Also reduced the filling level. To do this, snapped the rod off the float. He lowered it down and snapped it shut.
Trying to install the cover and the button. The thread of the button does not reach the thread of the drain mechanism. We measure with a ruler how much is missing and begin to adjust. We remove the mechanism, snap off the guides, increase the distance and snap it with "clothespins". We install it in place.
We immediately unfasten the rod from the red clamp, it should hang freely and in this position we fasten it back.
After these procedures, we install the button on its seat, screwing it into the thread.
Honestly, I do not like Tula armatures for tanks because of their impracticality. But what they bought, they put it on.
Finally I finished writing it, uh, I hope you appreciate my work. Share with the article to quickly find a photo instruction from a plumber. When it's time to change the fittings bull tank.