Hood for the kitchen with an air duct (39 photos): how to install it yourself, instructions, photo and video tutorials

Any modern kitchen is equipped with a cooker hood. This is not just a tribute to fashion, but rather a matter of hygiene and ecology.

• Firstly, not every housewife wants to breathe the products of combustion of gas and fat in a frying pan.
• Secondly, these products, along with fumes, will settle on kitchen furniture, windows and walls, which will require constant cleaning and lead to premature wear.

Therefore, the hood is a necessary attribute. But the question arises: how to choose and correctly install an air duct for a kitchen hood? Let's look at it in order.

Varieties of kitchen hoods

By the principle of work

All hoods can be divided into two main types:

1. Circulating or filtering. These are hoods that work on the principle of air recirculation. The sucked-in gas volume is filtered by various (charcoal, grease-absorbing) filters and returned to the room.
2. Evacuation or retracting. Such devices draw air out of the kitchen in full. Usually they are connected by a special duct with a ventilation hole that leads to the ventilation duct of the building. An option is also possible in which a separate hole is made in the outer wall of the apartment and the air duct is brought out directly to the street.

Circulating hoods are less efficient. In addition, they require timely filter replacement. If the filters are not changed, this can lead not only to a decrease in the efficiency of the device, but also to its breakdown.

Since when the filter is clogged, the load on the fan motor increases many times, which, ultimately, can cause its winding to burn out or other types of malfunctions. The filter change mode must be indicated by the instructions for the hood.

Filter hoods are advisable in those kitchens where there is no daily cooking, especially fried foods, soups or meats, and food is only warmed up or cooked from semi-finished products.

Therefore, further we will consider hoods that remove air outside the kitchen.

Evacuation hoods are more efficient. But here there are a number of difficulties:

• The air ducts for the hood in the kitchen must correspond to the power of the device, and this applies not only to the part that is installed in the apartment, but also to the entire ventilation duct;
• When a powerful evacuation hood is in operation, adequate ventilation is required to provide an inflow of fresh air equivalent to the volume of gas evacuated from the kitchen;
• Ventilation ducts in Soviet-built houses do not meet the standards for which modern kitchen hoods are created;
• If a powerful hood evacuates 600 - 1000 m³ / hour declared by the manufacturer from your apartment, then with the windows and doors closed, this volume it will be compensated for by the back-draft ventilation of the bathrooms and bathrooms, filling the apartment with not the most noble smells;
• Punching an additional ventilation hole in the exterior wall of the house may require permission from the appropriate authorities responsible for the proper maintenance of the building.

Important! Most of the listed difficulties are relevant for restaurant kitchens or canteens. You have probably seen large diameter metal duct pipes coming out of the walls or windows of such kitchens.
For an ordinary kitchen serving the needs of an average family, a low-power hood is enough, a Soviet-style ventilation duct for which should be enough.

Read also the article "Kitchen hoods - types, principle of operation and maintenance."

By installation method

According to the place and method of installation, kitchen hoods are divided into several types:

1. Embedded. These are devices integrated into kitchen furniture so that the hood itself is not visible, but only from below you can see its radiator, and from the side you can see the control panel and sometimes part of the socket (see also article Built-in cooker hood - a step towards perfection).
2. Tabletop. They represent a horizontally located elongated socket, which is part of a special technological kitchen equipment. It is mainly used in professional kitchens.
3. Ceiling or island (see also article Island hoods for the kitchen - an aesthetic solution to the problem ). Most often this is one or more air intakes mounted in the ceiling. It can also have a dome shape, and the bell goes to the ceiling, where the duct is laid. Requires a suspended false ceiling with an air exhaust system.
4. Fireplace or domed (see also article Dome cooker hood - fashionable and functional). This is a separate device that is selected taking into account the kitchen interior and furniture. It can also be built into kitchen furniture.

Advice! For a city apartment or a small private house with average income of owners, the preferred option is a chimney-type hood, which can be built into kitchen furniture. It is these models that have the best price / quality ratio.

Hood installation

To install an evacuation type hood, its outlet must be connected to the opening of the ventilation duct or to the outside. For this, air ducts are used.

Read also the article “How to install a hood in the kitchen - a master class for you”.

Air duct selection

There are two main types of air ducts:

1. Plastic air ducts for kitchen hoods, made of synthetic materials. These materials are based on high-molecular compounds, most often - polyethylene, PVC, fiberglass, polyurethane, silicone, polypropylene and metal-plastic. For the kitchen, PVC is the material of choice, as it is not only durable, durable and lightweight, but excellent soldered and glued, is not afraid of the effects of acids and alkalis, temperature extremes, ultraviolet radiation and time. But the main feature of PVC is its hygiene: even containers for storing organs and blood are made from this material.
2. Corrugated aluminum tube. This option has one obvious drawback: unaesthetic appearance. Agree, not everyone wants to see this "factory" element in their kitchen. Therefore, you often have to think about ways to hide it. But the corrugation can be easily cut with simple scissors, molded into a square or rectangle with the help of fingers to mate with correspondingly shaped leads or holes. But the main advantage of the corrugation is that it never resonates and does not emit a hum or ringing, which often happens with rigid boxes, and quite unexpectedly.

Note! Plastic PVC air ducts are also made flexible, like corrugation, so the issue of resonance and hum can be solved by choosing a flexible PVC air duct.

When planning the path for laying the duct, remember that each bend reduces its throughput by 10%, and the minimum bend angle should not be lower than 90 °.

Also, sharp changes in pipe diameter are undesirable; it is better to make gradual transitions.

Ideal - when the diameter of the exhaust outlet coincides with the diameter of the ventilation window, and the diameter of the duct is matched to this value.

Ventilation problem

The installation of any device forcibly pumping air disrupts the natural ventilation of the room.

The hood is also no exception. There are usually two ways to solve this problem:

1. Punch an additional hole in the ventilation duct. It can be noted right away that this is not a solution to the problem simply because the additional window is not increases the cross-sectional area of ​​the ventilation duct and does not add additional opportunities. Also, with a strong draft from the lower floors or the wind, your kitchen fumes can return to you or your neighbors.
2. Break through the ventilation window in the outer wall and lead the air duct outside. This is, of course, a more rational solution, but on one condition: if you can get permission for this from the housing department. You can, of course, rely on the carelessness of our utilities and punch a hole at your own peril and risk, but it's up to you to decide. Also, an additional window for drawing in air instead of the evacuee will not interfere.

If you cannot bring the air duct out to the street, you can use a clapper valve.

As you can see in the diagram, the box has two inlets. When the damper is closed (it is marked in red), the air from the kitchen is freely discharged through the window, realizing natural ventilation.

When pressure arises from the exhaust side (with the fan on), the damper moves to another position by closing the first opening and providing forced ventilation by the motor hoods.

With this scheme, there is no reverse thrust to your kitchen, and when the hood is turned off, natural ventilation is not disturbed.

The damper is regulated by a weak spring (in the diagram it is indicated by a dark gray broken line), diameter wire for which it is recommended within 0.2 - 0.3 mm, spring length - 12 - 15 cm, its diameter - 4 - 5 mm.

Thin (0.5 mm) aluminum or hard and thin non-flammable plastic is best for the damper. The main condition is the low specific gravity of the material.

Advice! If you are offered to make a damper controlled by an electromagnet, which will be triggered when the fan motor is turned on, keep in mind that this is no better, and does not make much sense.

A damper with a spring adjusts itself: when the natural outflow of air increases during operation of the hood, it is lifted up to the stop the damper will drop to a certain intermediate position, and exactly as much air will enter the duct as it can skip.

Tool

For installation work, you may need the following set of tools:

• Electric jigsaw;
• Hacksaw for metal;
• Bulgarian;
• Polyurethane foam gun;
• Silicone sealant gun;
• Pliers;
• A set of files;
• Sandpaper;
• Vice;
• Roulette;
• Ruler;
• Pencil or marker;
• Electric drill;
• Screwdriver;
• A hammer;
• Construction knife;
• Metal scissors.

Making holes for a cracker

The best cracker material is thin-walled aluminum, sheet metal, or galvanized. For convenience, it is better to place the cracker on the cabinet, which is located above the stove.

Subsequently, the cracker will be glued to the cabinet with mounting glue or silicone, and planted in the ventilation window on mounting foam. This will eliminate the occurrence of resonance.

First of all, we try on the cracker by marking a hole on the top board of the cabinet in accordance with the bottom window of the cracker.

To do this, you can temporarily remove the flap and outline the hole with a pencil directly from the inside of the cracker. Then we outline the sides of the cracker box for subsequent installation.

Working with the cabinet

The cabinet will have to be emptied and removed from the wall.

Next, in the bottom board of the cabinet, cut out a hole for the hood with a jigsaw.

• To do this, draw a rectangle according to the size of the lower frame of the hood, inside the contour of which we drill a 1 cm hole so that you can insert a jigsaw saw.
• Next, carefully cut out the hole we need.
• After that, we take out the shelves and, using the same method, cut out round holes in them for the duct. We try to work slowly, accurately and accurately. At the same time, one must understand that micron accuracy is not required, we are not creating a fighter.
• Now we move on to the top board, where we have already outlined the window for the cracker. Cut a hole with a 3 mm allowance on each side. We do everything as carefully and accurately as possible so as not to go broke later on silicone.

Corrugation gasket

We put the cabinet on the back panel and insert the corrugation of the required length into the holes. Shape the upper end with your fingers into a rectangle or square for a hole in the top board of the cabinet.

We push the corrugation into the upper board, and cut the corners of its upper hole with scissors by 1.5 - 2 cm and bend it to the sides.

Firecracker assembly

We hang the cabinet with corrugation in place. The strips of corrugated foil that we have bent are lubricated with silicone, applying inseparable "sausages". We also apply silicone to the wood in the corners.

We insert a box with a cracker into the ventilation window, tilting it up. Then we lower it onto the board of the cabinet exactly between the marks that we put, outlining the sides of the box.

Excess silicone that has appeared on the sides can be removed with a cloth dipped in vinegar.

After 40 - 60 minutes (when the silicone dries) the gap between the edges of the cracker and the edge of the window for ventilation is blown out with polyurethane foam using a gun.

Hood installation

• Insert a hood into the cutout that we made in the bottom board of the cabinet.
• The corrugation is simply pushed up by the branch pipe, you don't need to put it on yet.
• We fasten the hood with screws to the cabinet through the mounting holes.
• Now we put the corrugation on the hood branch pipe and fix it with a clamp. You can also do with soft wire, the main thing is not to seal this connection, because it will have to be disassembled for cleaning.

Advice! Consider the wiring for the hood in advance. If plugged in, pay attention to grounding. It is taken into account in the European layout, but not in the old Soviet one. You can lead the wire out of the hood body and connect it to a solidly grounded element, for example, to a pipe from which the wires come out. Do not ground through water or gas pipes!

Conclusion

We have described how you can install a built-in hood in a cabinet.

There are many other installation methods, which can be found in the video posted with us, or view step-by-step instructions with photos that will help you understand the intricacies and avoid typical mistakes.
Circulating hoods for kitchens without an air duct - see here.

Gallery