A year and a half ago I bought a dacha. I am building, overgrown with some tool. Knowing this, the neighbors periodically beg for a grinder or a hammer drill. But the other day they asked for a welding machine, for which they received a "turn from the gate." I sent them to the store for the "unit", since they are relatively inexpensive.
Recently, I noticed that electronic control devices appeared on store shelves, in almost all where there is a plumbing department. WITHOUT adjustments.
Unlike those with the set temperature, in the photo below.
I was curious as to how a cheap "iron" works with electronic control. How does it function correctly, and can I recommend it to neighbors, friends, readers? Therefore, I took it. With a discount cost 1200 rubles.
Hi friends, I work as a Plumber, I have experience about which I broadcast on the channel pages. I would be glad to receive feedback in the form of a comment, like or repost.
Unpacking
Complete set of welding machine for diffusion, socket welding FRAP F 829 RJ Q20-32-3:
"Carcass" with two mounts, stand, two nozzles 20 and 25 mm "probes". One meter power cable. Nice metal case with flimsy fasteners. Photo in gallery:
From all documents, a sheet of A4 format, with instructions in English. By the way, there were no scissors in the kit, well, right.
The attachments from the kit are useless. The so-called probes. But, in order to solder 10 joints, they are good enough with a stretch.
Checking the "iron" in operation
I connected it to the network, from a low power of 800 W, the device did not heat up quickly. When accelerating to the desired temperature, the green indicator was on. And when you enter the operating mode, red (as it is wrong)
I tried to commute two joints to them. It turned out without problems, but because the nozzles are cheap, thin-walled, coated with heat-resistant paint, the pipe and fitting are a little tight. There are photos of the process in the gallery:
I cut the docking place in order to clearly demonstrate to the readers the structure of the connection:
Checking the heating element of the welding machine with a thermocouple
It is necessary to find out at what temperatures the heating element is switched on and off in the heating element. For this I use such a device.
It has a "probe" that will be installed in the attachment point of the attachments.
The test showed that when heated to a temperature of 270 ° C, the "soldering iron" turns off the power supply to the heating elements, a characteristic click is heard, the indicator is red.
By "inertia" the temperature rises to 280 ° C and gradually begins to fall. At a temperature of 260 ° C, it turns on, the green indicator lights up.
The run-up in heating temperature of the nozzles is quite acceptable 20-25 ° С. So that these jumps are less reflected in those processes, it is advisable to replace the nozzles with thicker-walled ones, which will increase the inertness and heat capacity of the latter. This will make the welding process more enjoyable. The device itself did not cause any negative feelings, for its price it is quite tolerable. For those who once a year make something from PPR, or make a country water supply, then the device is the very thing. I see no reason to pay more.