Irises are delicate bulbous plants that adorn many gardens. Some summer residents neglect their cleaning for the winter. However, in the fall, I collect tubers of some varieties and store them in a special place.
Pruning rules
Many gardeners leave the tubers to winter in the ground, and do not cut the dried tops. I think that this is wrong, because the leaves begin to rot, attract various bacteria and microorganisms, which become a source of disease. The disease progresses and affects the bulb.
Timely pruning helps to avoid this situation. As soon as the leaf plates turn yellow and droop, I cut them off, leaving them 10 cm above the ground. I burn the cut parts.
I start the procedure as soon as the autumn precipitation began. Thus, I improve the airing of the tubers.
I remove the buds together with the ovules immediately after flowering. After another 14 days, I recommend removing the peduncle itself, leaving no more than 3 cm from it - this is a preventive measure against decay.
Planting irises in the fall season
I prefer the autumn planting of irises, as it allows you to enjoy their full bloom next spring.
In addition, tubers planted before winter undergo natural hardening, improving the resistance of plants to weather fluctuations and increasing immunity to various diseases.
The success of the event directly depends on the landing site. When placing a flower bed, I recommend adhering to the following rules:
- choose a site on a hill to avoid stagnant moisture in the spring;
- the place should be well ventilated;
- with enough light.
I start planting irises in the fall as soon as the leaves of the flower have dried up.
I proceed as follows:
- I thoroughly clean the tubers from the soil.
- I carefully examine for mechanical damage, traces of rot, mold. I select only healthy specimens.
- I soak the planting material for a while in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
- I dry it in a sunny, well-ventilated place.
- I plant it in a new place in the second half of September - early October.
This time is enough for irises to take root in a new place and not grow.
For rhizome varieties, I first divide, then start planting in a similar way.
All flowers transplanted this season are still weak and need additional shelter for the winter.
How to cover irises for the winter
I cover all varieties for the winter, regardless of their winter hardiness. I pay special attention to:
- Dutch;
- Japanese;
- Spanish;
- rhizome;
- tall.
I close them as soon as the first frost has come.
I recommend that you follow the procedure:
- Thoroughly loosen the aisles.
- Treat the top of the bulb with a fungicide to avoid decay.
- Feed with a small amount of mineral fertilizers, avoiding nitrogen.
- Next, I mulch the planting with one of the materials: peat, straw, sawdust.
- I cover it with spruce branches.
In the spring, I clean up the shelter as soon as the snow has melted so that the bulbs do not spray. As soon as the weather is stable outside, the first shoots appear. Plants are quickly taken into growth.
There are some varieties that have low resistance to temperature changes and frost. I will definitely dig out such specimens and store them in the premises. I start the procedure as soon as the leaves have dried. I thoroughly clean the tubers from the ground and dry them at a temperature of 25 ° C for 30 days.
I really love irises. In my garden, they are planted next to the gazebo, in harmony with the ondulin roof. I grow several varieties of different shades at once.
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