Before the autumn planting of young seedlings in the garden, it is not required to take special courses. But still, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the nuances. I will try to explain to you how to properly plant trees in the garden in the autumn.
Advantages and disadvantages of planting fruit trees in the fall
There are pluses:
- During this period, a large selection of seedlings. It means that you can easily purchase high-quality planting material.
- Autumn soil in the fall is rather moist and loose, which significantly reduces labor costs and the amount of watering.
- The trees planted on time will have time to take root, get stronger, and in the spring they will begin to develop faster than the seedlings planted in early spring.
Not without cons:
- Young plants often do not survive in severe frosts.
- Rodents damage young tree bark in winter.
Optimal time for planting fruit crops
Boarding times vary depending on the region of residence. In the north, trees are planted in September - early October. I live in the middle lane and plant trees from September to October 15. And gardeners in the south can plant until November 10-15.
Landing plan
First of all, when planting, I pay attention to the fruit trees growing away from communications and the house. The optimum distance should be at least five meters. The root system of the plant grows and can damage the foundation. Also, you should not place tall trees closer than 30-35 m from the dwelling, and undersized trees at a distance of at least 4-5 m.
Also, do not forget to consider plant compatibility. Not all trees can tolerate each other.
- Cherries will not be able to stay next to the apricot.
- Cherry plum and peach do not tolerate the neighborhood of an apple tree.
- And many fruit crops do not like such a plant as a walnut.
Preparing the planting hole and trees for planting
The size of the depression depends on the size of the roots. For stone fruit plants, I dig a hole with a diameter of about 40 cm, and a depth of no more than 50-60 cm. I place seed trees in a planting hole to a depth of 80 cm. The roots should be loose at the bottom.
I remove the upper part of the soil with special care, without mixing it with the rest of the soil. Then I mix it with mineral and organic fertilizers.
At the bottom of the hole, I lay drainage in the form of crushed stone, river pebbles or sand and gravel mixture.
I examine the seedlings, remove the dried, damaged edges of the roots. If the roots are very dry, I keep the tree in a bucket of water for a day.
Autumn planting
At the bottom of the recess, I install a support for the seedling in the form of a peg.
I straighten the root system and fill it with the prepared soil mixture. To do this, I mix in equal doses the top layer of the earth with rotted manure or compost no more than 30 g per planting recess. Do not fill the hole with fresh manure, so as not to burn the roots.
To improve clay soil, you can pour a mixture of peat (2-3 buckets), humus, or black soil (3-4 buckets), river sand (2-3 buckets), ash powder (2-3 glasses) and superphosphate (up to 3 glasses).
To protect the roots from frost, I mulch the soil in the near-trunk circle with fallen leaves, sawdust.
Some summer residents are in a hurry to whitewash the trunks and skeletal tree shoots. But I do not whiten fruit trees with a smooth surface, as this tightly clogs the pores, this slows down gas exchange, and burns can form on the bark. I postpone this procedure until the beginning of fruiting.
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