On my site in the Moscow region, different fruit trees grow. They take root well if the optimal planting dates are observed.
Spring planting
In the spring season, when planting seedlings of various fruit crops, I pay attention to how much the soil has warmed up, the air temperature, and the amount of precipitation.
I choose the period when the snow cover will completely melt. The soil should warm up, but I also do not allow the soil to dry out strongly, which reduces the survival rate. The air temperature must be above +5 ° C.
In spring, I mainly plant thermophilic varieties - apricot, peach, cherry. They need enough time to adapt. Planted in autumn, such crops often die from winter frosts.
I also take into account other advantages of spring planting:
- preparation of planting holes in the fall, which allows you to quickly transplant young plants;
- control over developing seedlings, which allows you to take timely measures to combat pests or infections;
- a sufficient amount of moisture after snow melting, necessary to activate growth processes.
Autumn planting
I select fruit crops with a good indicator of cold resistance for planting in the fall. This is a pear, a plum, and also a quince, an apple tree. They take root well and manage to get stronger before the winter season.
I consider an important advantage of autumn planting a wider range of planting material compared to early spring. I give preference to seedlings sold with a closed root system. They demonstrate almost one hundred percent survival rate.
I choose the period before autumn frosts, when the air temperature does not drop below + 5-6 ° C. For plums and apple trees, the optimal period is the second half of September. Cherries, cherries are planted in early October.
Landing conditions
I start by choosing a place for fruit crops. I draw up a detailed diagram on which I mark all the places, taking into account the height of the trunks, the size of the crown, the timing of fruiting. This avoids plants shading each other.
I provide a minimum distance of 5 m between tall trees.For dwarf crops, this figure is 3 m.
I take a plot for fruit trees with good lighting. Excluding swampy lowlands with aquifers located close to the surface. From low compact plants, I create a decorative hedge that adorns the landscape. If the tree has a thick crown, then I place it away from buildings and a fence.
Transplanting trees
Sometimes it is required to transfer an already adult plant to another place. Trees over 20 years old are more suitable for transplanting. I prefer the technology with the preservation of an earthen coma without traumatizing the roots. Such a plant easily adapts to a new place when planting in both spring and autumn.
Around the trunk, stepping back 0.5 m from it, I dig a groove. I chop off the horizontal root processes. A tractor may be required to retrieve a lump of wood. I immediately place the plant in a previously prepared hole, fill the voids with soil. Then I practice watering. The norm is 25 l / tree. To strengthen the plant, if there was damage, I dissolve 5 g of ammonium nitrate in 10 liters of water and feed it.
Landing algorithm
I carefully examine the seedlings before buying. The optimal thickness of their trunk is 2-3 cm, the length of skeletal branches is about 45 cm. The bark should be free of traces of the presence of pests, marks from diseases. It is important that the roots are firm, without multiple dry or rotten areas.
If storage time is required before transplanting, I wrap the open root system in moist burlap. I put the plants in a cool, dark room. Before the planting procedure, I cut off dry and weak root processes, and then I place the seedling in the Kornevin solution. I plant seedlings bought in a container with an earthen clod.
I prepare a planting pit with an average diameter of 1-1.2 m and a depth of 80-90 cm. I pour 1 bucket of humus or well-ripened compost and crushed peat into each hole, adding 100 g of ash and superphosphate. I securely drive a strong peg into the center.
I combine the nutritious top layer taken out in the process of digging with sod land, sand, peat in equal proportions. I use this soil to fill the hole.
I install the seedling, spreading the roots. I pour in the prepared soil, neatly compacting each layer, forming a low mound above the surface, which will gradually settle. I make a groove around the perimeter of the trunk circle, where I pour in 2-3 liters of water. Then I mulch the soil with dry peat to ensure slower evaporation of moisture.
The correct timing of planting guarantees good development of seedlings of fruit crops. When focusing on the lunar calendar, they perform the procedure for the growing moon.
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