One of the most common diseases that affect the foliage of a pear, and then the tree itself, is rust. It is important to notice the source of infection in a timely manner in order to preserve the harvest and the garden. Every owner should know how to save a pear from rust.
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Signs of infection
The first foci of the disease can be seen on the crown of the tree at the end of April. First, small spots of a red hue with a yellow rim appear on the leaf blades, then they increase, change their shade to a thicker one and become covered with dark stains. If you do not fight the fungus, over time, conical rusty growths appear on the inside of the leaf. They contain mycelium, which is then carried by the wind throughout the garden and infect other trees.
Sick foliage dries up and falls off, the tree weakens, stops bearing fruit and may dry out completely. Rust can also attack the branches and fruits of the pear. The diseased layers do not grow, become thick, become covered with orange spots and dry out.
Methods for dealing with rust
Fruit trees affected by rust begin to heal in the fall, after the foliage has fallen off. Sick pears need to be treated with fungicides, branches with rust foci should be cut off (even with a small area of damage). Sections are also required to be coated with fungicides, and then with a clay mash or garden varnish. Used pruning shears and hacksaws should first be treated with a disinfectant or alcohol. Collect and burn all plant residues together with foliage.
An effective way to deal with rust is spring treatment for diseases. It is carried out in 3 steps: spraying before the start of active growth, before and after pear flowering. Chemicals used for processing pears can be conditionally divided into preparations of the old and new sample. Both groups are produced on the basis of sulfur, which stops the growth, development and formation of spores and myceliums.
Old-style means - colloidal sulfur, copper and iron vitriol, Bordeaux liquid. They are recommended for use in cases of low tree infestation or for prophylaxis due to their low efficiency. The new type of agents defeat rust thanks to substances that stop the growth of mycelium inside the tree at the cellular level. These include Revus, Skor, Horus. Each drug has individual characteristics that should not be forgotten, otherwise the treatment will not give the desired effect.
Many fungicides are ineffective if the fungus is in the sporulation stage. Also, the pathogenic flora adapts to the action of the same drug, therefore it is recommended to alternate fungicidal agents, each applying a maximum of 2 times a season. Modern antifungal complexes have a wide spectrum of action; if used correctly, they destroy not only rust, but also powdery mildew and scab.
In addition to chemicals, folk remedies can also be used to remove rust. They are recommended to be used as an auxiliary element in combination with fungicides. Optimally used for disease containment to prevent chemicals from entering the fruit. Common folk methods:
- Horsetail decoction. Pour 75 g of fresh or 200 g of dried plant with 1 liter of water and boil for 20 minutes. Then it is necessary to dilute the prepared broth with 15 liters of warm water and spray. Or you can pour 1 kg of fresh horsetail in a bucket of cold water, leave for 1 day. Then boil for 30 minutes, cool the infusion and strain. Before treating trees, dilute the broth with water 1: 5 and spray it 2 times at intervals of a week.
- Ash solution. Pour 3 kg of ash into 3 liters of water and boil for an hour. Then cool the infusion, strain and add shavings of laundry soap (½ bar). Dilute 1: 5 with water before spraying. Carry out the processing 2 times with an interval of 10 days.
- Soda solution. 4 tbsp. l. shavings of laundry soap and 5 tbsp. l. dilute soda with 10 liters of water and spray the trees. Manipulations can be repeated 2 more times at weekly intervals.
It is optimal to spray the garden on a day when there is no wind and bright sun in the morning or evening hours.
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