Good afternoon, dear guests and subscribers of my channel!
As you know, commercial timber is a very popular material in the field of private housing construction. Wood is easy to handle and has good load-bearing capacity, but along with advantages, it also has disadvantages, one of which is warping (twisting and bending).
No matter what kind of wood is, any lumber made from wood is subject to deformation to one degree or another: bending, twisting, swelling or shrinkage. In particular, bending and twisting are the consequences of uneven drying of fibers within the material. because of what internal stresses appear, entailing a change in the geometric shape products.
If we leave freshly sawn wood without oppression, then nature will do its own thing and the material will twist a lot. The "screw" will be stronger for those boards with a closer core of the tree, but if the saw cut was farther from the center, then such boards are more stable. So how can we fix the natural effect?
In fact, people are offered several ways. You can use a planer to remove the protruding part of the tree and roughly fit it into the plane, or you can process it with a steam generator and put it under oppression.
But, these methods take time and it is not a fact that the result will please you. In this article, I propose three methods of using physical force when directly mounting the lumber to create reverse stress in the board and return it to its original shape.
1. Reinforced corner and bolt
We need to fix a rigid metal corner to the supporting wall (it is better to use 100 mm.) And by drilling a hole in it and in the wood, pull the edge of the board through a pin or bolt. You can use a clamp, but a professional one that holds the load. We tighten until the board is completely in contact with the plane of the corner shelf.
Beforehand, of course, you need to fix the second end of the board in order to eliminate the displacement when removing the screw.
2. Pinching
Two boards are cut off equal to the pitch of the installed beams (or rafter legs). The first is installed on the side where the edge of the beam is piled up, the second is carefully driven in with a hammer, pinching and leveling the curved beam:
3. Lever arm
We retreat 10-15 cm. from the supporting wall to which the beam will be fastened and make a lever. A metal tube, a corner, a birch handle from a shovel, or the same board can act as a lever. We fix the lever at the top of the beam and level the board with a little effort.
If the construction site has a lot of behavior boards, then you can build on the spot just such a homemade product, which can easily and easily bend the lumber in the opposite direction. It works in the same way (on the principle of a lever):
These methods can and should be combined with each other, depending on what is available on the construction site. For example, they pulled a beam with a corner and a bolt, and then, in order to fix it in this position, put pieces of board between them and pinch the beam. After installing all the beams (rafters) with the set pitch, they were fixed.
That's all, thanks for your attention! Hope it was helpful!
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