We welcome everyone to the channel for self-taught self-taught garages in welding! Here we provide work tips for newbies to save their time by not going through trial and error until they get normal results.
Let's analyze the necessary topic for welding a profile pipe with a thin wall of 1.5 mm. When everything has been measured, marked and cut off exactly, then the gap will be minimal when joining. Such a connection will be easy to weld. But there are other situations as well.
The gap can turn out to be large, this gap cannot be welded just like that. You can use the old method - lay the electrode rod broken off from the coating into the gap and weld like that. The method is quite working.
But there is another way, without adding additional metal to the gaps. And just weld such a gap with an electrode, in this case I will show it with an electrode with a diameter of 3 mm.
This is the kind of seam that should be obtained, I welded one gap completely, and the second reached the middle - we need this seam to show the theory.
And we will brew this gap. With a grinder, I made a cutout on the wall of the profile pipe, the width of this cutout is at least 4 mm. The electrode rod of 3 mm in this gap is free to play. So let's start with theory.
First, we will make a bridge between the two edges. As long as the metal is cold, this jumper tack should work out without problems.
The welding itself, of course, will be carried out with a separation, point by point. So we need electrodes with a rutile coating. These are stamps
ANO-21
MR-Z
OK-46 00
I put the current here about 85 amperes.
Welding direction with an angle forward, put a jumper at the beginning of the seam, and move further and further from it.
What movements of the electrode are we going to do here?
We cook, as it were, with strokes, from one edge to the other, quickly make a scale with the tip of the electrode. We are waiting for a split second and already from the edge where the electrode was torn off we also make a flake on the opposite edge. these scales should overlap. The second scale of the stroke overlaps the first, and so movement after movement. Another important detail.
Re-ignition is always done within the boundaries of the weld pool. When we tear off the electrode, we can clearly see the contours of this weld pool through the mask. And making a repeated smear of the flake, we ignite the electrode so that it does not go beyond the border of the fading weld pool.
If you ignite further than this contour, then the arc will hit the gap and quickly melt the edges and the already formed seam. This is an important little thing, without it nothing will work when welding thin walls. Another tip for the convenience of work.
If you put a new electrode, then let it be at 90 degrees in the holder. If the electrode is already half burnt, then it is better to put it at 45 degrees. It's a trifle, but it's much easier to control precise movements. We figured out the theory, now we will weld this gap.
If you follow all these recommendations, welding will go smoothly. Scale by scale with overlapping. Brewed up, let's see the result.
They beat off the slag, didn't even beat it off, but pushed it off the seam, it practically came off in two halves. The seam underneath is tight and beautiful. Let's take a closer look at sunlight.
That's it, we welded a large gap on thin metal without any additional seals.
Take technical knowledge and tricks into your arsenal.