Good afternoon, my reader. When growing roses outdoors, pruning them in the fall is the main activity before the plant leaves for winter rest. It depends on how it is carried out how well the roses overwinter, how successfully they will live, develop and bloom in the next season.
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There are many pruning methods, but here is one of the best and most effective ones that we recommend to any rose grower.
Basic pruning beginnings
First of all, pruning of faded buds is carried out. This is necessary so that the bush does not begin to form seeds: anyway, none of the varieties of roses reproduce by seeds, but the strength and nutrients spent on them will not be superfluous in winter.
Then comes the time for sanitary pruning. This term refers to the removal of all diseased, damaged and simply questionable shoots. Before winter, fluctuations are inappropriate: one overlooked area with bacterial rot or a colony of fungus can destroy the most wonderful bush. The pruning principle is simple: cut to a "live place", that is, to an area where there is no damage. You can recognize it by seeing a healthy white core. And there is certainly no need to leave dry shoots.
In addition, there are two more categories of shoots for removal:
- Young, newly formed. They are easily recognizable by the characteristic reddish color of the stems and leaves on them. Unfortunately, no matter how tightly cover the roses, it is the young growth of frost that will not survive in any case. And having died, each such shoot will become an instant prey for bacteria and fungi, striving to devour the entire bush. Young branches should be cut out completely, right from the point of growth. You should not regret: there are enough dormant buds on a healthy rose to give new abundant shoots in the spring.
- Root shoots, if the rose is grafted onto the rhizome of the rosehip. From this shoot, shoots will not develop of a rose, but of a rosehip - and if you need it, it is better to plant a rosehip in another place. Of course, this does not apply to roses grown by cuttings.
As for the shoots growing inside the bush, then the approach is twofold:
- on the one hand, thickening must be fought;
- on the other hand, autumn is not the time for shaping pruning.
So removing them or leaving them until spring depends on the wishes of the grower. We advise you to cut them out: then you can cover the remaining shoots more tightly.
"No Country for Old Men"
Speaking about autumn pruning, one should take into account that autumn is a great time to get rid of winter "freeloaders" by removing too old shoots before rest:
- hybrid roses - those over 3 years old;
- for other varieties - from 4-5 years.
As for how much to cut roses, yes - polyanthus, ramblers, floribunda, and other varietal groups have their own order. But if you are just starting the path of a florist, then use medium pruning. It consists of the following:
- In upright roses, all branches are removed at a height of about 35 cm from the ground. It is necessary to ensure that there are at least 5-7 buds in the remaining areas, which will give young growth.
- In groundcover creeping along the ground, all main shoots are cut one quarter of the length from the end, and the side branches are cut to a distance at which only 3-4 buds remain.
And most importantly, you need to trim on time. The pruning time is after the first frost, but before a stable "minus" temperature is established.
Do you know how to properly prune roses?
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Read about the care of climbing roses in the following article:Outdoor climbing care for a climbing rose. Growing highlights: from planting to abundant flowering